Guidebooks are loaded with horror stories about traveling alone in India, especially as a woman. A lot of them are true. But that shouldn’t stop you from having the time of your life in this amazing country, as I found out when I traveled there alone for 17 days.

I went in February (a great month to go) and, as per my usual travel strategy, I had no real plan. I wanted to form my own opinion about the country, so I dispensed with the Lonely Planet and its fear-inducing warning messages for females traveling alone. However, after my trip, I can attest: you need to be prepared for India. Although I made it out alive, many tears were shed along the way, most unnecessarily. This isn’t meant to scare you, but to help you make the best of your trip.

New Delhi is a difficult place to start. If you can, fly into Mumbai, a much more modern and welcoming city. If you must land in Delhi, find a hostel and make friends (possibly even a large man who you can pretend is your husband). Do not get tricked into a tour. People are very good at manipulating you into thinking it is the only way. I am sure some companies are better than others, but if you don’t want to be stuck for days on end with a middle-aged male driver who wants you to be his “under the table” girlfriend or get fleeced on hotels, then simply backpack from hostel to hostel in search of other like-minded travelers.

Plan to go for at least three weeks; it takes a while to get into the groove. Bring anti-diuretics and rehydration packets. It is noisy, you’ll need earplugs. People and animals are everywhere, along with music, children, cars, bikes, you name it. Lock your windows—monkeys are crafty. Do yoga, buy a pair of loosely fitting trousers and things will start to make sense. Take trains—they’re fun. There will be cockroaches, deal with it. Hang out of the doors with your hair blowing in the wind and soak it all in as green fields dotted with women in colorful saris pass by.

Go to Varanasi and see the Ganges. Walk through alleyways. Get lost. Go to Goa and enjoy the relaxed vibe and accessorized cows walking the beaches. Be one of the first people to enter the Taj Mahal in the early morning to witness the sunlight against the white marble. Ride a camel in Pushkar, Rajistan, where a large camel fair is held every year.

The most important thing about traveling in India is to have a good attitude. Trust your intuition, however, and know that one of the hardest parts of the journey is distinguishing between those you can and cannot trust. It seems everyone wants your money. This will test you. Be mindful, but go with the flow, and you will look back on your trip knowing you are stronger than before. India is an amazing place and the experience will catapult you closer to being the person you want to be.

FLIGHTS

There are flights from Shanghai to Mumbai on Air India for US$653 (return, tax included). Check out Kayak for weekly flights.