Nanjing combines the imperial air of Beijing with the modern conveniences of Shanghai. On the fast train, it’s less than three hours away. And there is plenty to keep you busy for a long weekend. Special thanks for www.sinoconnexion.com for their Nanjing insider info.

Outdoor Fun

It’s spring and Nanjing is the perfect place to get outside. Xuanwu Park (宣武湖公园), in the middle of the city, is the epicenter of outdoor activity in Nanjing. The park sprawls across 472 mou of landscaped lawn encircling placid Xuanwu Lake. It costs RMB30 to get in and is accessible from Metro Line 1 (Xuanwu Men Station).

Once inside, explore the causeways (for an extra fee) which connect to several largely undeveloped islands where you’ll find plenty of woods, gardens and teahouses. The main island even boasts a little amusement park appropriate for younger kids. Rent a paddle boat for a small fee and take a turn on the water.

Afterwards, stroll the ancient city wall which hems in the park on the west and south. This stunning monument, which date to the Ming Dynasty, is 20 meters tall and 10 meters thick in some parts and miraculously survived the jackhammers which pounded Beijing’s into oblivion. It’s eloquent testimony to the grandeur of ancient China, especially in the early evening. Pay a little extra and walk on top for some 35 kilometers. Zhonghua Men (中华门), far to the south, is the most well-preserved of the ancient city wall gates (and one of the largest on earth), but you’ll have to elbow tour groups to get atop of it.

Xuanwu Park is one of those rare places in China where you can actually sit on the grass without being harassed by rent-a-cops. In nice weather, vendors roam around selling hammocks. Invest in one, string it up between two trees and sway away an afternoon.

Another excellent outdoor destination is Mochou Lake. Named after a tragic beauty from back in the day, the water is hemmed by green lawns, landscaped gardens and semi-authentic looking pavilions and pagodas. If you’re planning a June trip, make sure it coincides with the Sheraton Nanjing Kingsley Dragon Boat Race. Now in its 10th year, the race attracts a mixed bag of foreigners and locals who compete all day long for bragging rights. It’s a great way to experience one of China’s oldest traditions.

Purple Mountain (紫金山) is an easy cab ride west of Xuanwu Park. It’s not the Himalayas, but it’s rugged and wooded and protected from development. In it, you’ll find two of Nanjing’s historical treasures, the Ming Tombs (明孝陵) and the Mausoleum of Sun Yat-sen. Give Sun Yat-sen a skip (too political) in favor of the magnificent final resting place of the founder of the Ming Dynasty.

The 600-year-old complex (70RMB) contains an exquisite array Ming-era architecture. Though what remains is only a fraction of its original size, you can (and should) plan a few hours to explore the galleries, stone bridges, walkways and park area reserved for the former peasant who restored the China’s throne to the Han people. The emperor’s actual burial chamber has never been touched; it’s still deep within the guts of Purple Mountain.

Afterwards, wander the web of paved paths which wind around the mountain through the forest and eventually lead to Purple Dawn Lake (紫霞湖). This small forest lake, which used to provide Nanjing its drinking water, is gem known only to Nanjingers who come to swim or picnic or make moon eyes at each other. Swim only at your own risk though.

If you haven’t gotten enough mountain, but don’t have the leg or the time for the slog to the top, there’s a cable car (蓝车, RMB45 round-trip) which skims the tree line. There’s an observatory at the top, though it’s not very interesting. However, if the weather is clear, you’ve got the entire city at your feet.

History Buff

Situated on a bend in the Yangzte River, the area has been inhabited for centuries. Exquisite and rare artifacts from this history are preserved at the Nanjing History Museum (312 Zhongshan Dong Lu, inside the Zhongshan Gate). It’s one of China’s top three history museums. Star attractions include a collection of porcelains from the Qin Dynasty (200 BC) and a massive collection of rare calligraphies and paintings. Best of all: admission is free.

Historians contend that more people lost their lives in the Taiping Rebellion (19th century) than in all of World War II. Thus is may seem strange that such a museum devoted to it should not only exist, but be one of the best in Nanjing. The Taiping Kingdom History Museum (RMB10) is located in a Ming era palace which later became the actual seat of government for the short-lived Taiping Kingdom whose leader famously believed he was Jesus’ brother. This is what China would have looked like as a theocracy.

Finally there’s the Nanjing Massacre Museum (free), commemorating Japanese atrocities in World War II. The museum is built on a mass grave and inside you’ll find sobering reminders of the horrors of humanity. In one glass enclosure you’ll find skeletons of victims—each properly tagged with identification. There’s a mural with an unbelievably long list of victims’ names. Outside is a heap of rocks where the mass grave was discovered. Photos are not encouraged. Japanese people are not allowed in.

A lot of guidebooks steer travelers to Fuzimiao (Confucius Temple), but it’s just too crowded and commercial anymore. Night is particularly bad. However, on its western end, the Qinghuai River flows past some of the most beautiful and oldest buildings in Nanjing. Arrive in the late afternoon for a stroll and don’t forget your camera.

Culture Vulture

The Jiangsu Province Art Museum opened just before Spring Festival.The ultra modern three floor building houses the largest collection of art in Jiangsu province. Displayed on the upper levels are examples of traditional Chinese art in the form of scrolls, landscapes, calligraphy and fans. The first floor of the museum is perhaps the most interesting. One can view a large collection of contemporary Chinese oil paintings, many dealing with a subject matter that is commonplace in modern China; that of skyscrapers, construction sites, even the Nanjing metro. The museum located close to the Nanjing library at the intersection of Changjiang Lu and Wenfu Lu and is open from 10am until 4pm daily, with last admissions at 3.30pm.

The Nanjing Brocade Museum is located adjacent to the Nanjing Massacre museum in the southwest of Nanjing. One meter of machine made brocade fabric sells at the museum for ¥400-600. For the handmade version be prepared to pay ¥6,000-12,000. Hand woven Nanjing brocade has a history of over 1,500 years while the Zhuang Hua wooden-loom represents a history of silk weaving lasting for over 4,700 years. This traditional hand-weaving technology is the only one of its kind handed down to modern times. The weaving skills of Nanjing brocade are handed down from generation to generation by means of hand and oral instruction. Nanjing brocade features rich patterns, big flowers, beautiful shapes, gorgeous and unrestrained colors, free color-matching and changeable tints; and in particular the application of golden peacock feather threads. In the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, Nanjing brocade was chosen as a dedicated material for royal family garments and ranked first among three major kinds of brocade in ancient China.

Relax

Outside the city there are some pretty decent golf courses—cheaper than the ones around Shanghai and much easier to get a tee time. The Nanjing Harvard Golf Club (25-5885-3333) has nothing to do with Harvard, but it is the oldest PGA-quality course in the area. Shoot 18 holes for RMB410 (RMB610 on weekends). For our money the best bet is the Sofitel Zhongshan Golf Resort (25-8540-8888). Their 27-hole course was designed by Gary Player and is one of the best in China. Book a room and 18 holes for RMB3,240.

After you’ve worn yourself out in town, head to Tangshan a famous hot springs resort town 30 minutes outside Nanjing. There you’ll find the award-winning Kayumanis Resort. It boasts 21 private villas, each with its very own hot spring and plunge pool. Kayumanis doesn’t allow kids under 12 and each villa is discretely enclosed by high walls to keep out prying eyes. Bathrobes are most definitely optional in your own private paradise. Weekend packages with the works run RMB10,000.

Where to Stay

Sheraton Nanjing Kingsley Hotel & Towers
Located in the heart of Nanjing, just a few minutes from the Xinjiekou metro stop (Line 1), this hotel has recently benefitted from extensive renovations. Travelers rave about the indoor pool. Rooms start at RMB750. Tel: (25) 8666-8888

Nanjing Jinling Hotel
This is the number one rated Nanjing hotel on Trip Advisor. It’s a top notch, locally-run operation, just down the street from the Sheraton. Rooms start at RMB700, but we recommend upgrading at the Executive Floor for only RMB300 extra. Their breakfast buffet is justifiably famous. Tel: 400-828-9966,

Sofitel Galaxy Nanjing
Closer to Xuanwu Lake, this hotel is probably your best value-for-kuai. Rooms start at RMB670 (tax included, book two weeks in advance) and are big enough to spread out in. Service is also top notch. This is the place to be if you want to feel like a VIP. Tel: (25) 8371-8888

Crowne Plaza Hotel & Suites Nanjing
Sandwiched between the Sheraton and the Jinling, the Crowne Plaza is the tallest hotel in the city. It’s also the cheapest of the bunch here with rooms going for less than RMB600 (tax included, advance purchase necessary). Don’t expect five-star service, but for the price, you can’t beat it. Tel: 800-830-2626