Four years in the works, direct flights connecting Shanghai and Honolulu finally launched in August. No more six-hour layover in Narita, now you can get on a plane (China Eastern) at 6pm and turn up 10 kilometers from famed Waikiki at 9:50am the next morning. There’s an endless number of things to do on Hawaii’s seven visitable islands, but for our money, Kauai (“The Garden Isle”) is the place to go.

Kauai is Hawaii’s least developed island, mainly because the coastal road seizes up on the NaPali cliffs. Kauai is also cool because all beaches are open to the public—if you can get to a beach, you’re allowed to be there. Maybe that’s why Kauapea Beach (otherwise known as “Secret Beach”) has become one of Hawaii’s most famous topless beaches.

The big thing to do on Kauai is hike the NaPali coast along the Kalalau Trail. It’s an exhausting 11-mile up-and-down trek that winds along the coast, through valleys, around sheer cliffs and finally ends in a secluded beach where you can camp. Permits are strictly enforced, and you need to apply at least six months in advance. You can also do a quicker in-and-out day hike to a stunning waterfall to get a taste of NaPali’s scenery.

The Kalalau Trail starts at Ke’e Beach. Ke’e is a great place for ocean activities, as it is protected by reefs from the currents which rip away at the wilderness of Polihale Beach on the west side. Plus, there are sea turtles. Strap on your gear, and you can get pretty close to these galoomphs of the sea. If you really want to get with creatures of the ocean, book a trip on a cataraman. The waters around Kauai are teeming with whales, dolphins, sharks and even giant manta rays. Trips can also drop you on secluded beaches for snorkeling. Catamaran Kahanu gets good reviews on TripAdvisor.

Kayaking is popular on Kauai. If you’re not up for battling the ocean currents, the Wailua River is Hawaii’s only navigable river. Hook up with Kayak Adventures for their secret waterfall excursion which takes you to the foot of Wailua Falls—the same waterfall made famous on that ’80s TV show Fantasy Island.

Kauai is also home to Waimea Canyon. Called “the Grand Canyon of Hawaii,” this kilometer-deep gash in the earth looks like it couldn’t possibly be in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. It’s Jurassic Park territory, criss-crossed by a web of hiking trails.

The best way to see everything in Kauai is to book a helicopter tour. Safari Helicopters and Blue Hawaiian Helicopters are the two main operators, and they both do tours that swing you out over the NaPali Cliffs and dive you down into the depths of Waimea Canyon.

For any trip to Kauai, plan on renting a car. Some say you can hitch, and there is some public transport, but when you’re in paradise, you don’t want to waste a single minute.

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