Inside Suzhou's Most Luxurious Hotel
So I had the chance to do something I’ve always wanted to do: stay overnight in one of those classical Suzhou gardens. Sort of. Okay I really stayed at the newly refurbished Garden Hotel Suzhou (Nan Yuan Fandian), but it’s the closest any of us mortals is ever going to get to midnight at the Master of Nets.
Spread over half a dozen buildings and 11 acres of meticulously landscaped garden, Nan Yuan is luxury which blends effortlessly with Suzhou’s unique aesthetic. Renovated last year at a cost of 260 million RMB, it was recently officially awarded five-star status.
The hotel itself is stunning, but it’s the history which makes it 100 percent unique. Building No. 7, which once belonged to Chiang Kai-shek’s ex-wife’s and son, is one of three original buildings still standing. The other two are the Buddhist cloister and the pagoda opposite. Chiang’s abandoned wife used to go to the cloister to chant scripture.
But the story gets better. After Liberation, No. 7 was occupied by none other than General Lin Biao and you can visit the fascinating maze of tunnels below the ground which emanate from the garage (where sits a vintage Hongqi limousine, the fourth one made in China). In the tunnels, find dusty crates holding stuff which hasn’t been disturbed in 40 years. On the walls find photos (with decent English captions) which provide snapshots of the vilified general’s life. It’s a fascinating testament to paranoia and the climate of the times, and a marked contrast to the serenity of the grounds today.
The hotel boasts the same sleek executive elegance you’d find at a Hyatt property, but is 100 percent Chinese owned and operated. If you really want to show off, book lunch and an erhu player in the private garden tucked in a quiet corner. If you want to relax, check into the Zen Spa where Thai masseuses will take care of you. Or get some exercise in the 20 meter pool which is open 24 hours.
Downsides of the hotel include the Western food (not nearly five-star) and the rooms still suffer a little bit from less than perfect wiring (the TV made this audible high pitched buzzing sound when turned on). But given its uniqueness and location (Situated between the Master of Nets and Surging Waves Gardens) Nanyuan makes a fantastic starting point for any exploration of Suzhou’s exquisite aesthetic.
Nanyuan Fandian RMB1,580 for a deluxe room Tel: (512) 6778-6778 www.gardenhotelsz.com


