Jiuzhaigou is a World Heritage Site in the northern tip of Sichuan. It’s panda country, renowned for crystal-clear waters, awe-inspiring waterfalls and multicolored lakes stained amazing colors by minerals. Legend has it that a Tibetan goddess dropped a mirror which shattered into hundreds of pieces, and these magically transformed into the lakes and rivers you see today.

Not many foreigners make it to Jiuzhaigou, but plenty of Chinese do. To beat the crowds, be at the ticket counter just before it opens (7am). The busloads start rolling in shortly thereafter. April 1-November 15 is peak season and tickets run RMB310. That includes access to the network of buses which criss-cross the 720 sq. kilometer nature reserve. Hop from site to site on the buses or walk along the extensive network of wooden trails which wind through the valleys.

The two must-visits are Five Flower Lake and Mirror Lake. Five Flower Lake is the one you see in all the photos. Its multi-colored hues and crystal-clear waters reveal ancient tree trunks rooted into the lake bed. Mirror Lake is best visited early in the morning when the waters are calm and you can see the famed reflections clearly.

In 2009 Zharu Valley was opened to ecotourism. This smaller gorge lacks the spectacular lakes, but you’ll be blessedly far from the madding crowds. You can tramp through Tibetan villages, hike unspoiled mountain trails and train your telephoto lens on the local fauna. It’s said the park is home to a dozen or so wild pandas, but you’re more likely to catch site of a golden monkey, a red panda or a golden eagle.

You need to arrange a guide in advance if you want to do Zharu Valley, though. No one is allowed in on their own. A guide for a day costs around RMB380. It is possible to pitch a tent in Zharu with park permission (ecotourism@jiuzhai.com or call 837-773-7811), though permission is not guaranteed.

Winter is obviously freezing and there is rain in summer, making mid-October prime season for the fall foliage, though expect as many tourists as autumn leaves. Most people combine Jiuzhaigou with a visit to Chengdu. There are also plenty of other places to visit in the area, such as Songpan and Aba County. Check out the excellent Jiuzhaigou website for details.

TRAVEL TOOLS

STAY: There is a Sheraton Hotel 10 minutes from the park entrance by taxi. If you’re after a Tibetan-style homestay try Zhuo Ma’s Hostel.

DO: Book a local guide to take you on an eco-hike through Zharu Valley which is largely free from tourists (ecotourism@jiuzhai.com).

GET THERE: There are direct flights from Shanghai to Jiuzhaigou-Huanglong Airport for around RMB2,200 one way.