People always want to know where the travel editor takes his holidays, so here goes. This Spring Festival I am heading to Chiang Rai in northern Thailand.

Chiang Mai in northern Thailand is over and done, overrun by backpackers, druggies and package tourists. The city gets upwards of a million visitors a year anymore. For a look at what Chiang Mai used to be like head another 300 kilometers north to Chiang Rai, the very heart of the infamous Golden Triangle.

Just outside the village of Chiang Rai is one of the world’s best hotels, the Four Seasons Tented Camp. Despite the humble name, it finished at the top of Conde Nast Traveler’s 2010 Gold List, even scoring an impressive perfect 100 in the service category. The hotel, which only has 15 tents, is situated on a hill from which you can see into Myanmar and Laos. You can eat your breakfast while watching baby elephants being fed. They specialize in Mahout training (basically bareback elephant riding) and their spa even features a specially-designed post-Mahout massage. None of this comes cheap, of course. Three-day all-inclusive packages go for RMB15,000 a night (plus surcharge). Ouch.

I won't be staying there, it's far too expensive. However there are plenty of other great places to find peace in the hills outside Chiang Rai. The Phu Chaisai Mountain Resort & Spa has rooms with spectacular views for RMB800 (plus service charge). There are also plenty of budget options in Chiang Rai proper.

Aside from mastering the elephant, I'll be doing some trekking in Chiang Rai. There are more ethnicities than you can shake a stick at, all happily doing traditional things in their timeless villages. Trekking Thailand is solid budget option. They arrange day and overnight trips which get you out on the trail. You may even find time for a swim under a waterfall.

Get to Chiang Rai from Shanghai via Bangkok for RMB6,068 (round trip) on Thai Airways.