There’s a lot going on down in Moganshan. Naked Retreats just opened the fabulous naked Stables, Le Passage Moganshan, an amazing 50-room boutique hotel, is set to open in December and just about everyone in Houwu Village is kitting out their homes to accommodate the legions of weekend warriors after fresh air and bamboo forests. What used to be the pre-eminent summer destination for Shanghai’s well-heeled elite is well on its way once again to becoming just that.

Moganshan House 23
If you want to stay at the top of the mountain you can’t do better than Moganshan House 23. Renovated out of an old colonial-style villa, it’s run by the same people behind The Lodge. Another favorite is the Yi Yuan and Pastor Villas (莫干山颐园和牧师别墅, Tel: 0572-8033-362). Also housed in an old colonial villa, this B&B offers rooms with balconies for RMB600 a night.

naked Home Village
Naked Retreats (now re-christened naked Home Village), down the mountain a bit, was the first of the high-end operators to move in. They specialize in eco-friendly luxury lifestyle stuff. If you’re going to spend the money, go for the Sky Studio. Up a long, winding set of stone steps, this is the place to get away from it all. The village ayis bring the famous naked bread to you while you work your way through the small wine cellar.

naked Stables Private Reserve
But their newest venture, naked Stables Private Reserve, which soft-opened on October 1, takes it one step further. Carved out of a little valley, this eco-retreat features fancy eco-huts, swimming pools, equestrian facilities and a wellness center. Accomodations start at RMB2,600 a night.

Le Passage Moganshan
And then there’s Le Passage Moganshan. Originally it was supposed to be a holiday home, but when surrounding property came up for sale, the owner jumped at the opportunity to create a bastion of French countryside living hidden in the bamboo. It’s got a swimming pool, a tea plantation and a rose garden. A Shanghainese chef in the kitchen turns out hearty French fare. The entire place is heated and well-insulated so it’s going to be great for winter getaways. Expect it to open to the public around Christmas.

Houwu Village
At the foot of the mountain there’s Houwu Village. This is where you’ll find budget options popular with outdoor types. Top of the pile is Prodigy, a chalet modeled on those in the Alps frequented by bikers, featuring bunks, private rooms and a fireplace in a big common area. Houwu is exploding with nongjiale style accomodations–all in the RMB100-200 a night range. If Prodigy is booked, try the Bamboo View Guesthouse for beds beyond plank board mattresses or the loftily named but servicable Shangri-la (Tel: 137-3511-3720).

How to get there
To get to Moganshan, take the bus to Deqing (德清) which leaves at 8:45am every morning from Shanghai South Railway Station, or take the fast train to Hangzhou from Hongqiao Railway Station, then take a bus from the Hangzhou North Bus Station to Deqing. From Deqing grab a cab to the mountain.