When the Duchess of Bedford decided an extra meal was needed between lunch and dinner, she was on to a good thing. Afternoon tea is the ultimate treat, and enjoying it in opulent surroundings is a sure fire way to make anyone feel like royalty.

In China, dinner is usually eaten earlier than in the West, so it can be hard to find the time to squeeze in a few scones, but in the name of journalism I somehow managed it.

Here are my picks for the best three-tiered teas in town.

First up is The Peninsula. You can get the hotel’s world-renowned afternoon tea here throughout the month, but it’s worth coming down on the first Saturday for their monthly tea dance (2-6pm). The next one happens this Saturday.

Enjoy a traditional English afternoon tea while making like an old-time Shanghai glamour puss. A 14-piece big band, complete with a sleek-suited, Moon River-crooning front man serenades a crowd of young couples and families in their finery. The cheesy jazz and kids running about can make it feel a bit wedding reception at times, but the overall effect is authentic jazz-age luxury.

At ¥480 per person (plus surcharge) it doesn’t come cheap, but the quality is high. The food is as you would expect, including the requisite finger sandwiches made with salmon, cucumber and egg mayonnaise. Plus they chuck in a free glass of Rossini to help numb the pain in your wallet.

The Portman Ritz-Carlton has the best selection of teas on offer, with over 40 to choose from. Served daily in the Lobby Lounge from 2:30-5:30pm, it’s a more casual affair than The Peninsula’s and is also more affordable at ¥288 (including a free glass of Champagne).

You get the usual sandwiches and scones–with clotted cream imported straight from Devon, England–and a truly impressive selection of sweets and pastries.

But the cream (tea) of the crop is at the JW Marriott at Tomorrow Square (daily, 2:30-5:30pm, p. 78).

The savories steal the show here: cucumber sandwiches with cucumber so finely shredded it’s like teeny tiny elves have hand sliced them especially for you, a naughty foie gras-topped bun, a delicious square of rye topped with a dense cottage cheese–and these are just a few of the highlights.

The clotted cream is served generously and they even lay on some fresh strawberries to mop up any you can’t fit on your scones. At ¥188 it’s a decent deal, and if you get down there in May, you get a free glass of Mumm Champagne as well.

Reservations are necessary if you want to bag a window table–I’d highly recommended it since the hotel’s lobby is on the 38th floor and has a gorgeous view of People’s Park.

So that’s the afternoon munchies taken care of. Elevenses anyone?