Shouning Lu satisfies your late-night seafood cravings

Shouning Lu has ruined me for seafood. Every time I order seafood at restaurants, it’s like a rip-off because I know I can get it for cheaper down the street,” says Shouning Lu die-hard Aurora Li, half-jokingly. There’s nothing that quite captures a summertime in Shanghai like sweating over a steaming bowl of crayfish and ice-cold bottles of Suntory while perched on a tiny stool hours before the morning. For that quintessential Shanghai summer experience, there’s no better place than Shouning Lu.

It’s currently fully covered with bamboo scaffolding, but unlike its touristy peer, Wujiang Lu, this more local haven in Huangpu District is here to stay. Before digging into the main event–crayfish– push through the crowds to whet your appetite at 韩记烧烤, Chao Ji Shao Kao, located at 50 Shouning Lu. The charcoal chute is always flaming, and young cooks continuously shuck fresh oysters (¥5) and scallops (¥5) for the grill. Make sure to get grilled mantou (¥2) to mop up the creamy and surprisingly French garlic sauce drizzled on the shellfish.

Next, cross the street to the king of the block, Number 17 Crayfish House. Expect a wait if you arrive between 6-8pm, but it’s worth it. This slightly more modern crustacean outpost serves up Shanghai’s freshest and most tender tails (¥28 for half a kilo). For those with stronger fingers, make sure you get a bucket of squilla (¥35 for half a kilo), the pale and sharp-shelled crayfish cousin.

While delicious, all this seafood will leave you with a carnivorous craving. Saunter down to the end of the block and make a right turn on Renmin Lu. Walk a few steps and you’ll hear blaring Arabic music and smell the pungent smoke of the copper grill at Alibaba Xinjiang Restaurant (Tel: 6328-7035).

Order up a few sticks of lamb (¥2.5 each), perfectly seasoned and meatier than most, and chill out with the friendly waiters over some crisp Xinjiang black beer (¥10). Nearing fullness, it’s time to double back and get dessert. Head to 33 Shouning Lu for Hong Kong-style fruit soups. These cooling, fresh concoctions are the perfect ending to a big summer feast. The best of the lot is the mango and lychee soup with tapioca balls (¥8).

Although most shops are open during the day, Shouning Lu is best visited at night, when chatty locals fill the narrow street with loud Shanghainese and young Chinese couples go on crayfish dates. Be careful on rainy nights though, the oily refuse covering the curbs can make it a slippery walk. Take advantage of the Shanghai summer and get to crayfish shucking.

Jordan Calinoff