Ah the life of a food writer. Could there be anything more cushy or pleasurable? And can't anyone eat and write about it? How hard could it be? I often get asked these questions. The short answer is: yes, this job is outrageously fun. Can anyone do it? Well, an enduring life-long passion for food and cooking will help, however constant deadlines are a challenge no matter what the topic-and remember, not all meals are gourmet feasts, there are a lot of mediocre ones, a few truly bad.

There's more than just showing up and eating. When evaluating a restaurant I'm in reporting mode-taking notes, photos, and ordering all over the menu, including things that may not be favorites. Here are a few of the many details I look for.

Firstly, I do homework: reading articles on the cuisine and / or venue. On arrival, I soak in presentation: Is it romantic, chic, casual? Are tables well-spaced? Are those Reidel glasses? Is the silverware hefty and well-balanced? Is the menu easy to navigate? Are dishes described in accurate and inviting language? When the food arrives, it's time to evaluate the kitchen. Are there novel or intriguing ingredients? This is where knowledge of the local market gives insight. Only Gusto Fine Foods supplies fresh tarragon, several farms supply fresh foie gras. Is the beef decidedly American tasting? It may have been smuggled up from Hong Kong. Gorgeous, artful plating marks the difference between a tasty dish and a masterpiece. In terms of flavor, I look beyond taste to combinations, temperatures, textures. I taste each component separately (what's that sauce, what's this garnish?) and together-that's the total flavor combo the chef wants you to experience. I evaluate if what I'm eating is cutting-edge or a historical nod. Is the kitchen using time-honored traditional techniques or is it all about molecular gastronomy? I question the wait staff, looking for a thorough understanding of menu and wine list. If the chef visits the dining room, I may ask about his or her cuisine and approach. Consistency is the Holy Grail of fine dining. Ideally I can make two or three visits.

In the end, food writing is a matter of interest. Does your bookshelf groan with culinary memoirs, food-stained cookbooks, Saveur magazines? I am constantly devouring all publications on food that I can lay hands on. Do your eyes light up when you spot a newly in season fruit or a newly-opened restaurant? I'm transported and transfixed by magnificent cooking. Does a talented chef in action really do something for you? If so, you just may be ready to start your food writing career.

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