I spend over 12 hours a day thinking about food in one form or another. Between custom tasting menus, upcoming holiday specials, themed dishes and our regular menu changes, I am constantly mulling over flavor combinations, textural contrasts and the like. And, while I like to imagine I’m pretty well-versed in basic food lore, there’s a lot more I don’t know. So when I’m looking for inspiration or trying to broaden my horizons, nothing matches the experience of flipping through a well-written cookbook.
Every cook I know, has a collection of cookbooks somewhere. They range from the simple (Rachel Ray and her 30-minute meals) to the extravagant (Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck Cookbook), and though there is no “best” one, here are some of my favorites.
On Food and Cooking | Harold McGee
For food knowledge and science, I and many other professionals agree that On Food and Cooking by Harold McGee is the undisputed king. Did you know that the word avocado is derived from the Aztec word for testicles? I didn’t, but Mr. McGee did. There are thousands of other entries on various fruits, vegetables and spices, and McGee also does an incredible job of breaking down the science behind everyday food techniques like emulsions and braising meats. Use it as a reference book or flip through it day-by-day; it does a great job of showing you how and why things happen.
The Zuni Cafe Cookbook | Judy Rogers
If you’re looking for readability and inspiration, reach for Judy Rogers' The Zuni Cafe Cookbook. Her recipes are spot-on, but it’s the tone and thought that goes behind the recipes that make this book special. Rogers explains how certain dishes were developed and how the history of her restaurant has affected her menus, and she offers up countless ways to vary each and every recipe in the book to suit different seasons and needs.
Au Pied de Cochon | Martin Piccard
For pure food porn, Martin Piccard’s Au Pied de Cochon is one of the all-time greats. Interspersed with amazing and often hilarious artwork and pictures, Piccard’s book is simultaneously humble and over the top (roughly 65 percent of the recipes use foie gras). But the truly inspiring aspect of this book is the sense of identity that echoes through the pages. This is a man (and a restaurant) who has found his place in the world and isn’t ashamed to shout it from the rooftops.
Where to Buy
English books can be hard to come by here, but Garden Books has a decent collection and Blue Fountain books has great online listings. Taobao is also a reliable source if you know what you want, but my personal choice is to make a group order at Amazon and split shipping costs.
If all else fails, you’re always welcome to grab a coffee at the restaurant, look through my collection and see what catches your eye.
Image of recipe from The Zuni Cafe Cookbook, sourced from Alexandra Cooks
When Austin Hu isn't busy writing City Weekend's The Dish blog, he runs things over at Madison. Check out more of his articles here.
Hey Eddie, Did a bit of research and asked some friends. African cookbooks, unfortunately, are pretty few and far between, at least ones of quality. Marcus Samuelsson has one called "The Soul of a New Cuisine: A Discovery of the Food and Flavors of Africa" that is generally very well regarded, though it is not a pure African cookbook, he takes traditional flavors and techniques from various parts of Africa and applies them to modern cooking. As for a book that covers Asian food well, it will be difficult as each individual cuisine is so very broad. For my money you might be better off getting individual books for Chinese, Japanese, Korean, and the like. Generally the more specific the cookbook is the more indepth the author can go. All of my experiences with general "asian" cuisine cookbooks have fallen rather short of inspiring, they don't factor in the various different types of soy sauce used by the different cultures, the different vinegars, basically in an attempt to cover as much ground as possible they end up skimming over the details that make each cuisine distinct. Hope this helps!
Eddie - if you can pick up a copy on the used market 'Chinese Gastronomy' by Hsiang Ju Lin and Tsuifeng Lin is an interesting read. Half treatise, half cookbook - it covers a number of Chinese regional styles. From the Western perspective, its most interesting aspect may be the categorizing/complimenting of different flavors and textures.
Other Posts by This Writer
How to Love Soy Sauce, A Staple of Chinese Cuisine
By chefhu
The reputation of Chinese cuisine has languished. Long ago the epicenter of the culinary world, ...Pop-Up Restaurants: The Global Trend that's Hitting Shanghai
By chefhu
If you love to browse the food section of the New York Times or food ...Going Solo: Erasing the Stigma of Eating Out Alone
By chefhu
It may sound trite, but I think one of the greatest accomplishments of my life ...The Pure Pleasure of a Perfect Pecan
By chefhu
Admidst the sensory barrage that comes with chef celebritization and food porn, it’s often easy ...Resto-nomics: All the Other Costs of Running a Restaurant
By chefhu
Last issue we covered food cost and what that does to the cost of your ...The Price of Food: How Much Does Your Meal Really Cost?
By chefhu
Today I’m addressing a much maligned topic here in Shanghai: restaurant economics. I’m not exactly ...China Steps Up To the Plate at the Bocuse d’Or Culinary Competition
By chefhu
One of my best friends during my years in New York was a Korean cook ...How to Get Great Customer Service in Shanghai Restaurants
By chefhu
Contrary to the general consensus, I must say that I generally get good service in ...Staying Sharp: What Chefs Do When They’re Unemployed
By chefhu
While there are certainly exceptions to the rule, cooks are generally mobile and mercenary in ...The Double Dish: Chef Austin Hu's 2012 F&B Predictions
By chefhu
Last week we served up the first helping of this extra special double Dish, featuring ...The Double Dish: Chef Brad Turley's 2012 F&B Predictions
By chefhu
For this edition of The Dish two of our favorite Shanghai chefs, Brad Turley of ...What to Eat to Beat the Most Killer Hangover
By chefhu
We’ve all been there before. You wake up in the morning with a mouthful of ...Zai Jian Old Friend: Saying Goodbye to a Favorite Restaurant
By chefhu
By the time you read this, Fulton Place’s closing will be old news. Shanghai is ...Take a Byte Out of This: How Technology and Restaurants Work Hand in Hand
By chefhu
To be honest, I used to think that technology and restaurants were mutually exclusive things. ...The One Thing Shanghai's Dining Scene Is Missing
By chefhu
Recently I have found myself craving hamburgers. And not just any ol’ burger. Heck, I ...Shanghai's Best Late Night Bar Eats
By chefhu
I think the mark of a true gourmand is their willingness to get deep into ...How to Beat Shanghai’s All-You-Can-Eat Deals
By chefhu
We do many things to excess in the Paris of the East, but of all ...By chefhu
I gotta tell you, there really aren’t a lot of perks associated with cooking professionally. ...DIY Grill: A Guide to Throwing the Perfect Barbecue
By chefhu
The end of summer is approaching faster than I could have imagined. I’ve prattled on ...
Good list. As a foodie, have to go look up the others. Prior, I respect McGee's work as the only book that gives a good width/depth coverage of many "esoteric" Asian ingredients including local dialect names for many of the ingredients that's unique to Asia. :-) Am still looking for a comprehensive cookbook that gives good coverage (mainly in English, please) for Asian food (not just Chinese).
Say, any good cookbooks for the unique ingredients/styles found in the "dark Continent" (old nickname for Africa)?