Food Porn Alert: Three Cookbooks You Need Now
by chefhu | Posted on May 12 2011 | The Dish 3 Comments | 0 Bookmarked
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I spend over 12 hours a day thinking about food in one form or another. Between custom tasting menus, upcoming holiday specials, themed dishes and our regular menu changes, I am constantly mulling over flavor combinations, textural contrasts and the like. And, while I like to imagine I’m pretty well-versed in basic food lore, there’s a lot more I don’t know. So when I’m looking for inspiration or trying to broaden my horizons, nothing matches the experience of flipping through a well-written cookbook.

Every cook I know, has a collection of cookbooks somewhere. They range from the simple (Rachel Ray and her 30-minute meals) to the extravagant (Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck Cookbook), and though there is no “best” one, here are some of my favorites.

On Food and Cooking | Harold McGee
For food knowledge and science, I and many other professionals agree that On Food and Cooking by Harold McGee is the undisputed king. Did you know that the word avocado is derived from the Aztec word for testicles? I didn’t, but Mr. McGee did. There are thousands of other entries on various fruits, vegetables and spices, and McGee also does an incredible job of breaking down the science behind everyday food techniques like emulsions and braising meats. Use it as a reference book or flip through it day-by-day; it does a great job of showing you how and why things happen.

The Zuni Cafe Cookbook | Judy Rogers
If you’re looking for readability and inspiration, reach for Judy Rogers' The Zuni Cafe Cookbook. Her recipes are spot-on, but it’s the tone and thought that goes behind the recipes that make this book special. Rogers explains how certain dishes were developed and how the history of her restaurant has affected her menus, and she offers up countless ways to vary each and every recipe in the book to suit different seasons and needs.

Au Pied de Cochon | Martin Piccard
For pure food porn, Martin Piccard’s Au Pied de Cochon is one of the all-time greats. Interspersed with amazing and often hilarious artwork and pictures, Piccard’s book is simultaneously humble and over the top (roughly 65 percent of the recipes use foie gras). But the truly inspiring aspect of this book is the sense of identity that echoes through the pages. This is a man (and a restaurant) who has found his place in the world and isn’t ashamed to shout it from the rooftops.

Where to Buy
English books can be hard to come by here, but Garden Books has a decent collection and Blue Fountain books has great online listings. Taobao is also a reliable source if you know what you want, but my personal choice is to make a group order at Amazon and split shipping costs.

If all else fails, you’re always welcome to grab a coffee at the restaurant, look through my collection and see what catches your eye.

Image of recipe from The Zuni Cafe Cookbook, sourced from Alexandra Cooks


When Austin Hu isn't busy writing City Weekend's The Dish blog, he runs things over at Madison. Check out more of his articles here.

3 Comments

Good list. As a foodie, have to go look up the others. Prior, I respect McGee's work as the only book that gives a good width/depth coverage of many "esoteric" Asian ingredients including local dialect names for many of the ingredients that's unique to Asia. :-) Am still looking for a comprehensive cookbook that gives good coverage (mainly in English, please) for Asian food (not just Chinese).
Say, any good cookbooks for the unique ingredients/styles found in the "dark Continent" (old nickname for Africa)?

Posted by eddie10 1 y ago
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Hey Eddie, Did a bit of research and asked some friends. African cookbooks, unfortunately, are pretty few and far between, at least ones of quality. Marcus Samuelsson has one called "The Soul of a New Cuisine: A Discovery of the Food and Flavors of Africa" that is generally very well regarded, though it is not a pure African cookbook, he takes traditional flavors and techniques from various parts of Africa and applies them to modern cooking. As for a book that covers Asian food well, it will be difficult as each individual cuisine is so very broad. For my money you might be better off getting individual books for Chinese, Japanese, Korean, and the like. Generally the more specific the cookbook is the more indepth the author can go. All of my experiences with general "asian" cuisine cookbooks have fallen rather short of inspiring, they don't factor in the various different types of soy sauce used by the different cultures, the different vinegars, basically in an attempt to cover as much ground as possible they end up skimming over the details that make each cuisine distinct. Hope this helps!

Posted by austinhu 1 y ago
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Eddie - if you can pick up a copy on the used market 'Chinese Gastronomy' by Hsiang Ju Lin and Tsuifeng Lin is an interesting read. Half treatise, half cookbook - it covers a number of Chinese regional styles. From the Western perspective, its most interesting aspect may be the categorizing/complimenting of different flavors and textures.

Posted by bill_greyskull 1 y ago
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