Contrary to the general consensus, I must say that I generally get good service in Shanghai. While my ego would like to imagine that this has something to do with my restaurant and my lovingly crafted columns, I doubt that’s true. The truth is that my family and I get good service and have for ages. Why? We tip. We tip our favorite servers, managers, hostesses, receptionists, security guards—whoever offers us great service in some way.
I can already hear the roar of outrage from naysayers, but before you throw me to the lynch mobs, hear me out. A wise man once told me that he tips “to insure proper service.” Ignoring the fact that “ensure” is actually the right word there, the truth of the matter is that the sentiment is valid. When you go to a fine dining establishment in the U.S., you are expected to leave an extra 15 percent on top of the bill for the server taking care of you. And sure, tipping is less prevalent in Europe, it’s not unheard of. Either way, you’re talking about countries with a long history of the professional server and a true service culture.
Accordingly, servers there are paid a much more compared to the average server in Shanghai. A career server in France can raise a family, but an average server here makes RMB1,200-2,000 in a Chinese restaurant and RMB2,500-3,000 in a Western restaurant. Fine dining pays a bit more, but it’s still a tough living.
Now before I get crucified for “messing up the system” or whatever you want to call it, I do have a few things to add. First off, I don’t tip arbitrarily or exorbitantly. I’m not a pop star “making it rain” just because I can. I reward for good service and always after the meal. It’s meant as a thank you for hard work and dedication, something to tell them that yes, you could have sat around and played on your cell phone like your friend over there, but instead you hustled and made yourself incredibly helpful. For that, I thank you. And I tip in relation to the bill; not at a hard percent but a simple matter of relativity. You’d be surprised how happy you can make someone for RMB20 when it’s done in a manner that is both polite and grateful.
As someone in the industry, my views are skewed. I’ve heard the arguments, that one shouldn’t have to pay extra for someone to do their job, and you’re right. But with that mentality, that’s all you’re going to get: someone doing their job. In the meantime, my favorite servers always greet me by name, remember my “usual” and let me know if the kitchen has anything special or if there’s a special promotion available. All this for a friendly smile and a little bit of extra appreciation. I think it’s well worth it.
When Austin Hu isn't busy writing City Weekend's The Dish blog, he runs things over at Madison. Check out more of his articles here.
If in doubt with this topic then watch Reservoir Dogs again. If still in doubt then watch Reservoir Dogs again
"How to Get Great Customer Service in Shangahi Restaurants" .... Shangahi? For a publication with so many 'editors', very little editing seems to actually happen.
I see the manic CW memory holer has been in action - but as a note to the 'editors', please bear in mind that just because its easy to change the soft version DOES NOT validate the number of glaring mistakes you let through. You can remove without an erratum, sure - but we saw, and we remember, and you're getting worse.
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"I’ve heard the arguments, that one shouldn’t have to pay extra for someone to do their job, and you’re right. But with that mentality, that’s all you’re going to get: someone doing their job." I can see precisely where you are coming from and I respect your point. However, I must disagree: How do we define the role of waitstaff in a restaurant? Are they there to simply bring food or to help enhance your dining experience? If they are simply there to give you the food, then fine, they should drop the steak on the table and walk off. No questions asked, no service expected: take the order, deliver the order and bring the bill. Bam. If however, they are there to improve your experience and thereby encourage you to return, then they need to consider how they present themselves and the restaurant. Making the dining experience a better one encourages diners to return and improves the staff's chances of promotion or being poached by a better restaurant. I have always viewed the waitstaff as essential to a good meal - there's a reason I keep returning to certain restaurants and cafes, and several good reasons why others get the cold shoulder. Their job is to make the diners happy - within reasonable limits. To suggest otherwise is a cold and empty experience devoid of charm. If a waiter goes above and beyond the call of duty - going to a buffet for someone with mobility problems and making sure the chef gives them the best of everything, taking five minutes to entertain a small child who has taken a shine to them or taking a look at the reserved table and saying "No, that won't do at all, we can find you something better" ... then and only then would they earn themselves a tip. But honestly speaking, I feel tipping cash is a bit tacky, so I will give them a gift later or mention to the boss that "Bob" went above and beyond today. That all being said, there is something about the attitude of Shanghai diners (both local and expatriate) that doesn't exactly elicit good service. Expatriates in Chinese restaurants need to accept a certain level of fear and wonderment from the Chinese staff (pointing at and discussing people loudly is unacceptable, however) and locals need to accept that foreign-oriented restaurants are not necessarily suited to their specific tastes and need to accept that they are eating non-Chinese food. As always, a smile as you walk into the restaurant is always a good start -from clients and staff alike.