When I had a life and went out to dinner on a regular basis, there were few phrases that excited me more than “off-menu.” Like pre-release movie screenings and gray market i-Phones, eating something not on the regular menu makes me feel special, like I’m part of a very select club that is somehow in the know. Sometimes these off-menu dishes are items being tried out for the menu, sometimes, like Brad’s burger at Goga, they’re hidden personal favorites, and sometimes they’re dishes simply too complicated to make during service.

But the culinary community is not by any means unified on the serving of off-menu items. I once worked for a chef who militantly refused even the slightest modifications, and I understand why he’s like that: menu items have been streamlined, buffed and polished, and are basically the best representations of that dish that he can manage. That’s why they’re on the menu. But I’ve also worked with some chefs who constantly float around, grabbing a bit from each station to create a special something-something for that VIP that just walked in.

Of the two schools of thought, I fall fully into the latter. I love going off menu. Perhaps I suffer from ADHD, but even my own menus can bore me, regardless of how often I change them. There’s just something about working without constraints that really gets my juices flowing. Here at the restaurant, we have quite a few regulars that will simply present me with a budget and let me do the rest. Assuming I have some warning, these menus are always among the highlights of my day. Someone is trusting me with their gustatory destiny and I am dutifully honored to do all I can to not let them down.

So how do you get into the club? You’d do best by first becoming a full-fledged regular at your favorite restaurant. Then talk to the chef. If you have a special meal coming up, plan it out. While I love making mods on the fly, I can guarantee that I’ll do an even better job if you give some time. For special menus, I generally need a couple of days to organize my thoughts and order in special products. Given that you’re a regular, you’re familiar with my menu. But I will try my best to go above and beyond, to give you something you have yet to see from me. I only ask you to trust me and to be open-minded.

Now, going off menu doesn’t come without risk. I know some diners will never venture off the beaten path. Going off menu means you’re wandering into the unknown, and to be completely honest, some dishes work out better in the mind than they do on the plate. It’s a gamble, but isn’t that part of the thrill of life?

When Austin Hu isn't busy writing City Weekend's The Dish blog, he runs things over at Madison. Check out more of his articles here.