It’s the season for oysters, fresh, fried or grilled

Food mythology tells us that oysters ought to be eaten only in months with an “r”. Some say this tale sprung up before widespread refrigeration, when the warmer months meant oysters would spoil faster. Others claim it makes scientific sense, as some oysters only begin fattening up in late fall. Whatever the origins, the old tradition of eating these luscious bivalves during the winter months is easy to celebrate right in Shanghai.

The sophisticated oyster: Osteria manages to be both elegant and cozy. When craving sparkling, fresh oysters on the half shell, I head here and try to nab the front banquette by the big picture window. Prices range from ¥98 for six West Coast Virgins up to ¥248 for six French Fin de Claires. On “Oysterlicious Tuesdays,” you get a flight of three wines and seven oysters for ¥137. And just how should “oyster virgins” eat their West Coast Virgins? In his book Consider the Oyster, shucking champion Patrick McMurray instructs: “Bring the halfshell to your slightly parted lips and tilt it back, allowing the soft flesh and liquid of this salty ocean treat to slide into your mouth, gently brushing your tongue. The occasional bite is allowed, but please be gentle.” So now you know.

Oysters for beginners: Did you know oysters are alive when you eat them raw? If you touch their frilly edge, you can sometimes see them shiver. Some folks are not so fond of the shivering, slippery, sensual, silky texture of raw bivalves. Charmant has just the dish for you: plump oysters (¥36) battered and then deep-fried into golden, airy pillows of saline crispiness. These babies once converted an oyster hater instantaneously into an oyster glutton who barely saved any for me.

Oysters for adventurers: Shouning Lu’s street side char-grilled oysters (¥5 each) are what lure me here when I want a quick, hot bite--especially late night. These meaty oysters are farmed mainly in Fujian and Guangzhou. One must be careful: these are not necessarily hygienic enough to eat raw. Look for stalls where shuckers are hard at work hacking open the stubborn, calcified shells; this at least guarantees the oysters are sealed shut and alive. Then make sure they are grilled thoroughly until they are boiling in their shells. It’s the sauce that makes these so magically delicious: garlic, oil, green onion, pepper and spices.

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