Tongchuan Lu Savvy

In 2008, local media declared that the massive Tongchuan seafood market was about to turn fins and move to an even more remote location. But recently, ahoy, there’s good news for seafood fans: the market is staying put, at least for the next few years.

Autumn’s arrival often finds me at Tongchuan Lu selecting hairy crabs and mantis shrimp, both at their prime in the fall. The innumerable, creature-crammed stalls at the Tongchuan market can be intimidating, but when you learn what to look for and how to sidestep scams, this is the place for the freshest fish deals.

The first thing I do is trawl the strip. I approach the endless stalls along the cross sections of Tongchuan Lu and Caoyang Lu as if it were a great open-air free aquarium and petting zoo. I poke at shrimp, fish and clams. Mr. Shen, the friendly purveyor at Shop no. 2, Lane 1481 Caoyang Lu 曹杨路1481弄2号, advises buyers to “closely examine shrimp to make sure they are all alive. For fish, confirm there are no scars on the body and the eyes are clear.” For shellfish, he says, “With baby abalone, check that the shell is in good shape with no nicks. For clams, touch the shell–if it opens, the clam is good.”

My top picks (with approximate, seasonal prices) are the fresh, fat sea scallops ( shan bei 扇贝 ¥40 per kg), baby abalone ( xiao bao yu 小 鲍鱼 ¥150 per kg), long, sharp razor clams ( chen zi 蛏子 ¥40 per kg), ribbon fish ( dai yu 带鱼 ¥28 per kg), grouper (shi ban yu 石斑鱼 ¥230 per kg) and hairy crab ( dazha xie medium-sized ones, ¥110 per kg). But even if you know the right price, Shen warns hungry shoppers: “Don’t rush to buy seafood, compare prices, bargain and check the weight several times before you leave the stall. This is the most important thing when buying seafood.”

Once I have my bags of still-wriggling creatures, I usually take my haul to Xin Jiulong Tang (Tel: 6265-8977, 6254-2268), the venerable seafood joint (the Chinglish menu here is a classic) right on Tongchuan Lu where the kitchen specializes in hustling away the live charges and turning them into steaming dishes in short order. They charge by weight. Transforming my long, silver ribbon fish into luscious red-glazed bite-sized pieces costs ¥10 for about a pound. Scallops are steamed for just ¥2 per piece. This is also the frugal way to enjoy hairy crab–select your own at the market, then have chefs prepare you a fall crab feast.

Do you love the vivid colors and fresh selection at local wet markets, but you're not sure how to jump in and shop smart? Check out my latest article on how to get the best deals from your neighborhood wet market.

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