Kakadu rocks, but I am not a big fan of kangaroo …
Crystyl Mo horks down lots of Aussie beasties (plus roots, nuts, berries...)
I’m sorry, maybe it’s a mental thing, but to me it tastes… furry... like a large mouse. I had the large bouncing animal for the first time at Kakadu, Shanghai’s new Aussie restaurant, a few weeks ago. (Read my Dish column about it here)
The kangaroo was part of a trio of appetizers (all of Aussie meats) which were the only challenging tastes for me in a stunningly delicious meal. I cannot fault Chef Paul Sing’s cooking—because I watched the adorable 22-year-old chef (he might be shy but he’s a charmer) myself in the kitchen as he expertly slapped the dark red “steaks” on the grill, turning them when they had lovely black marks, yet still had juices visibly rushing to the surface when he squeezed them with his tongs.
Paul told me he loves kangaroo because it’s "so tender"… well, to my taste it wasn’t tough but it wasn’t melty tender like a fatty beef ribeye either. It’s too gamey for me, but I think someone who does like gamey things, like wild duck, or strongly-“sheepy” lamb meat, would enjoy it.
As for the emu: it was more tender than the ‘roo but lacked a rich meaty flavor, (I guess it is a bird, after all, even if it’s the same height as I am…) it tasted a bit like a mix between poultry and beef.
Now, crocodile: this was my favorite out of this group of outback animals. It tastes like a hybrid of chicken and fish, there’s a lightness, a chewiness that goes very well with the citrus and fragrant lemon myrtle sauce that Paul coats it in. If I had to pick only amongst these Aussie beasts, I would choose crocodile.
But if I could pick anything on Paul’s wide-ranging menu, it would be the barramundi or the lamb chop. They may sound more tame, but lordy when he puts them together with all those desert spice goodies, they just sing out: come back and eat me again! (And that’s just what I did, I’ve already had the barramundi three times!)
Kakadu owner (and Paul’s uncle) James Sing told me that the Aussie drought has made indigenous species more affordable to raise. “We have no water, so all the animals that rely more heavily on water have now become more expensive. And animals that don’t need as much water like kangaroo are now cheaper than beef. At the same time, aboriginal food is becoming more popular.”
And if you are curious about just what aboriginal food really is, you’ve got to check out one of the major suppliers of Kakadu’s wild spices, herbs, roots and fruits, a rather wild guy himself named Vic Cherikoff who I researched online. Cherikoff has apparently been fervently promoting aboriginal ingredients for decades, he's often in the news (he’s even launched a line of sauces on US supermarket shelves recently), and has his own exuberant and humorous website where he preaches the gourmet gospel on the foods and flavors of wild Australia, and you can even order his spices and cookbooks there.
Check out my other recent blog entries:
Musings on Caesar salad options in Shanghai--where's your favorite Caesar fix?
My full interview with the CEO of China's biggest restaurant review website--the man himself reveals his favorite Shanghai restaurants!
Comments Add a public comment
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Hey, glad you enjoyed the review! I was at Kakadu's grand opening two nights ago and had a few crocodile skewers--I think the kabab format works well with the croc because it got some nice blackened bits on the outside adding flavor and texture to the otherwise pretty mild and chewy meat. (although I am of the school that almost anything tastes good blackened on the grill). If you do try the crocodile, let me know how it goes. Either way, one dish not to be missed at Kakadu is the lemon myrtle marscapone fool--a fragrant (lemony with aromas of lavender and basil), creamy dessert served in a chubby glass with bits of buttery crumble. Egad the thing is good.
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Had roo burger once, at Glastonbury. It tasted exactly like beef!
Crocodile sounds delicious! At least they don't cook armadillo :)
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Kangaroo is still fine, but CROCODILE??? can't imagine how to eat that one...
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Mmm! it all sounds good to me! I like emu, but now really want to try croc! I have heard that Kanga is tough and gamey, but I am willing to try anything (dangerous claim in China!). You really made me want to check out Kakadu next time I am in town!
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I actually like Crocs. The meat. NOT. THE. SHOES.
Never had Emu (wot is it again?)
But Kangaroos are just way to cute to eat, no? It's like eating Panda, or something.
Wotevs, I'm down with Aussie food.
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Went to a opening party for Kakadu. I enjoyed the setup and interior - comfy and not pretentious. Didn't get to try to the food yet (spent most of the time drinking), so will have to go back for grub.
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I've been brave enough to try ostrich, buffalo and crocodile, but probably not kangaroo...It's the whole baby-in-pocket notion, I suppose.
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I think a lot of Chinese people would like to try Kangaroo, maybe the restaurant can advertise to the locals too.
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Thanks for the review, I'm going to be passing through in a couple of weeks and I'm very intrigued to try out this appetizer trio...slightly hesitant but more so curious to try Kangaroo. Have had crocodile before--thumbs up!
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this was such a great review of kakadu!...i may not have the guts to try kangaroo, but you convinced me to try crocodile!