Let’s face it, Shanghainese cuisine doesn’t have the international reputation of its regional siblings. It’s often derided as sweet, oily and drowned in soy sauce. But anyone who’s devoured drunken chicken or slurped sheng jian bao knows Shanghai has so much more to offer. Here are three of the city’s best Shanghainese restaurants for every budget.
For a cheap eat, try Chun. This grandma’s kitchen only has four tables and is located in the front room of an old terraced block. There’s no time wasted on interior design here; it’s all about the food. Chun is a food blogger’s delight and has even been featured in the Wall Street Journal . Despite this fame, it’s mainly filled with local regulars. People who know a good thing keep coming back.
There’s no menu here. Owner Qu Minglan likes to give newcomers a selection to try so that “people who aren’t familiar with Shanghainese cuisine don’t only order famous dishes, but eat the same as locals.” Go with her flow. Everything is good, but if you’re lucky she might let you try the Mandarin fish (¥65)–the sweet soy sauce is freshened with ginger.
Mid-range, and probably the best-known of the bunch, is Jesse. This restaurant is a Shanghai staple which everyone should visit at least once, if only to say they’ve been. It’s popular with celebrities and officials alike and even Jackie Chan has had their hong shao rou.
The food is so clean and crisp you’d be forgiven for thinking oil was missing altogether. The dried beancurd with parsley (¥12) is perfectly balanced with tofu so meaty I could become vegetarian. The fried prawn and chicken with chili (¥78) is a must-have, with the biggest and juiciest prawns I’ve had at that price.
For a special occasion try Fu 1088. I’d love to be able to tell you it’s not worth it, but it so is. The setting is divine–19 private dining rooms in an elegant villa–and the food is even better. Executive chef Tony Lu describes the menu as two-thirds traditional Shanghainese and one-third Western fusion–it’s like Shanghainese nouveau cuisine.
The attention to detail is impeccable. A perfectly sliced eggshell acts as a bowl for sautéed hairy crab and egg custard (¥28), and a web of caramelized sugar surrounds a tender lotus shoot (¥38). Lu refuses to give recommendations, believing that “calling one dish better than another spoils the enjoyment of the meal overall.” But I’m happy to share my favorite: the minced duckling with baked sesame pie (¥68). The duck pairs well with the sesame flavor, and the crunch of pine nuts with the minced meat makes for a satisfying texture. This place is worth it.
So the next time someone tells you there’s no such thing as good Shanghainese cuisine, shut them up by stuffing their mouths with something from one of these great finds.
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