Cold Comfort

Shanghai makes room for novel frozen treats and new flavors

Ice cream and gelato purveyors around Shanghai are re-making the traditional cone with enchanting, summery flavors. One shop offers gelato bursting with local fruit while a newly arrived Japanese ice cream chain churns a 15th century Elizabethan herb into an icy delight.

The difficulties of producing perfect gelato are legendary. That’s why Le Crème Milano’s owner, Pan Ting, brought in “gelato extraordinaire” Giani Barbargelato from Italy. “Yes, that’s his real last name!” says Pan, 27, a Shanghainese who developed a gelato addiction while working in Milan’s fashion industry. Pan says Barbagelato helped Le Crème develop its made-from-scratch recipe using imported Italian ingredients and local flavorings.

“We aren’t afraid to experiment,” says Pan. “There are quite a few interesting fruits in the area, and it just took a matter of tweaking to get them right in gelato form. In particular, yangmei and lychee are extremely popular.” I tried the lychee, which was fragrant with the pear and sugar syrup flavors of the fruit, and studded with succulent bits. The brilliant mango gelato was my top pick: so intense it’s like gnawing on that funny, fuzzy sweetest part around the pit.

“We also carry a durian flavor every once in a while, though not everyone digs it,” says Pan. “But we do have a list of durian lovers that we contact every time we make a batch!” Count yourself as a fan of this malodorous fruit? Drop by Le Crème and add your name to the list.

Another cool favorite of mine in Shanghai is the silky vanilla soft serve, neither too sweet nor too melty, at Milne. The Japanese chain recently opened an adorable, though nearly impossible-to-find basement shop in Hong Xin Plaza.

The Milne ice cream flavor (not a soft serve) that surprised and invigorated my palate was tansy leaf—it sang on my tongue like perfumed lemon balm with hints of mint. The friendly Japanese counter girl couldn’t explain the flavor’s origins, so I went home and googled it. I discovered that tansy leaf was a medicinal plant as well as a common seasoning in omelets and desserts in Shakespeare’s time. Jack Daniel allegedly liked crushed tansy leaf with his whiskey. Now you can get your fix of this archaic herb, served cold and creamy, right in Shanghai.

Want to know my top picks (and pans) for another summer refresher? Read all about Shanghai's myraid milk tea options here.

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