Shanghai's teahouse gems and what to order

When I drink tea at home, I often brew the Celestial Seasonings herbal teas I grew up with. But I love visiting a classical teahouse and having a proper tea ceremony, especially when autumn or--don’t say it--the Shanghai winter, comes slogging in, all dampness and frigid gray.

There are a handful of generally undiscovered “all-you-can-drink-and-eat” teahouses around town, and I don’t think they should stay secret because they offer a remarkable deal: traditional Chinese design, Wi-Fi, an endless buffet of nuts and fruits, several hot dishes (nothing exceptional, grant you), and, of course, a pot of hot tea, all for about ￥80. This is a steal, especially when you plan to sit there for half the day, as I do. I’ve found two marvelous teahouses. Both have so many empty seats that I can only blame an utter lack of PR savvy.

Perhaps one problem for the new Geng Yue Ren Teahouse is a wholly inconspicuous doorway among the maze-like streets surrounding the old city. However, once you do find it, and take the elevator up to the teahouse, you'll be quietly dazzled by an interior straight out of an ancient folk tale. Following laws of fengshui, a waterway stocked with goldfish runs along the border of the stone-flagged main room and massive wooden pillars support decorative gabled tile roofs. A dramatically-lit carved gateway is the centerpiece.

The semi-private rooms, which line the exterior walls, are intimate spaces which provide one of those classic contrasting Shanghai views: out the window you can gaze beyond the upturned eaves of Yuyuan to the exhibitionism of Pudong, while on your other side is the restrained, dignified stone and wood interior. The tie guanyin tea here is bold and perfumed, with a long sweet finish. It was our favorite among the four we tried. Ask the waitstaff to infuse the tea at your table so you can watch the graceful tea ceremony (cha dao).

Closer to the city center is De He Teahouse, also incongruously set in a modern mall. Once again fat goldfish swim through canals in this sweeping space. Although it lacks the sophistication of design at Geng Yue, De He is thoroughly charming. I love the view of the outdoor track where you can watch children running. I also love De He’s delicately sweet Golden Osmanthus (￥88), a honeycolored green tea scented with this candy-sweet yellow flower, which perfume the streets of Shanghai from the many osmanthus trees in parks and yards. As autumn coolly wanes, there’s nothing like a sip of blossoming flowers.

Care to hold your own tea ceremony at home? Check out these wholesale markets to get the best deal on tea, several times cheaper than downtown shops.

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