Crystyl Mo muses on: What makes Caesar great?

So, Charles Cabell, owner of Mesa on Julu Lu, has told me with extreme confidence that their Caesar salad is hands-down one of the most scrumptious in town. He’s invited me in to give it a whirl, and I hope to try it in the coming weeks. He's got some serious competitors to stand up to.

I have two memories of incontrovertibly delicious Caesars in this little town. One is at Laris where they select only the tenderest, most pale green parts of the Romaine lettuce—those frilly, gently curled inner leaves that are sweetest and crispest. It’s combined with halved soft-boiled quail’s eggs and poached shrimp and big crunchy, never ever soggy, croutons, and a light film of tangy, creamy dressing, with just the right subtle anchovy kick. And actually Laris’s was the first gourmand version of a Caesar salad that I ever had, back when the restaurant first opened and I spent many happy hours nosing about in the kitchens. The salad was so delicate and pretty, and painstakingly composed, and it will always have a special place in my food memory bank.

The other Caesar that imprinted on me was at Kathleen’s Five. There are few dining experiences which can compare with the simple, casual delight of sitting on their terrace perched on top of the historic Shanghai Art Museum, on a fine sunny day, gazing out over People’s Square, and eating their crisp Romaine leaves coated, not drenched, in dressing enriched with tiny cubes of bleu cheese, shavings of parmesan, crisp-fried pancetta, and—what seems to have become the de rigueur gourmet Caesar accompaniment—soft-boiled quail’s egg. Compared with Laris, the plating is not as careful, their leaves are not as tender, but the flavors are bright, salty and refreshing.

Have you had a stand-out Caesar in Shanghai, what about an awful one? What are your tips and tricks for making a great Caesar? Let me know by commenting below, I will conduct some "market research" (i.e. eating large quantities of Romaine lettuce) for a future article on Caesar salads and I would love input.