Astonishing Service in the Most Unlikely Places

There are 17 seats at Cunlai Shichu, a shabby but clean Japanese eatery located right off of the crowded hallway connecting subway lines 1 and 3 at Shanghai South Railway Station (上海南站). Shanghainese owner Mr. Chai worked for 21 years in Japan and on the side, dabbled in Italian and Japanese cooking at an amateur culinary school. When he returned to Shanghai a few years ago, Chai wanted nothing but to hold court over his own tiny counter, offering simple Japanese neighborhood fare.

Every day Chai (often together with his wife) cheerily greets guests, prepares simple dishes of imported Japanese fish and chicken, and proudly shows off photos of the couple's beloved pet cat. Despite already bargain basement prices, they often bestow free snacks on their regulars who are initially bewildered and then invariably enchanted at the sincere and meticulous service.

The tender barbeque chicken (照烧鸡排) tastes deliciously smoky, like it was roasted over coals. Pour the chicken’s sauce over your rice, and in between bites, nibble your pickled radish, seaweed salad or cabbage salad, (authentically squiggled with Kewpie mayonaise) or slurp down a big bowl of udon noodles, served in a milky pork broth, with exceedingly tender fish balls and shrimp. The cramped counter at Cunlai Shichu has such an avid following, they’ll soon renovate and expand to 50 seats.

A short ride away in the People’s Square subway, another tiny gem quietly awaits by exit 10. Come early to catch the French owner sweeping in the door with his little bike and a “bonjour” to diners. He and his Chinese partner opened Café du Metro (Tel: 6327-3091) two years ago, and their friendliness is shared by the charming waitress.

The Salade du Chef is a giant leafy offering with corn, pan-fried potato dice, tiny crunchy croutons, two perfect sunny-side-up eggs and an addictive, mild olive oil and lemon dressing. The dinner set is a ridiculous bargain at ¥79 for several courses plus coffee and wine. Get the beef lasagna: a melty square with tender layers and crumbly, thyme-infused beef tomato sauce.

Sitting inside, I imagine I'm far from the subway, immersed in the jazzy music, the chatter of people eating happily and the homey, not quite kitschy, décor. The owner chats with guests with such warmth, it leads me to feel curiouser and curiouser. What a feeling to walk into an inexpensive cozy restaurant and have people smile at you in recognition, remember what you ordered last, smile and joke. It’s almost like a fairy tale. Is it strange that the best service in Shanghai is in the subway? Yes, I feel like Alice down in the rabbit hole, discovering a strange, but delicious world.

Back to index for my dining blog - The Dish