Shopping in wet markets is easier than you think

I once found shopping in wet markets daunting. It was 1996 in Nanjing, and I was a newly arrived student. I could barely speak a few sentences of Chinese. I hadn’t a clue what price things should be, and I felt that even entering the market was intimidating. At the same time, the vivid, fresh fruits and vegetables stimulated my senses. And, since I knew of no supermarkets selling produce at that time, I had no choice: if I wanted pineapple or cucumbers I had to brave the wet market.

Thirteen years later in Shanghai, I have a hundred supermarkets to choose from but I still choose the wet market. For selection, freshness and price, it often beats all others. The wet market also gives me a valued chance to build a relationship with local vendors, support my native community and carefully select exactly what I want. Just a few sprigs of cilantro? Fine. And none will get thrown out from the bottom of my fridge at the end of the week. Will the vendor shell my fresh fava beans for me? She would be delighted. Can I learn what is in season right now? Of course. The slender baby asparagus and purple amaranth have just appeared and they are neatly piled in front at several stalls. I can buy free range eggs, fresh tofu, pickled veggies or whole walnuts, all by weight.

After visiting the market just a few times, people recognize me, and they press their freshest produce upon me. The fishmonger is pleased to order six live perch for my dinner party, which I can pick up tomorrow, and, yes, he will happily clean and scale them. My porkchops can be cut to order; I like them fatty. Clam chowder, a luxury when I was a child, can be whipped up on a whim with the market’s inexpensive fresh clams.

My tips for wet market shopping: Ask your ayi or door guard where the nearest market is located. You can shop here without any Chinese ability: vendors can show you prices on calculators, and don’t be shy with sign language. Before you buy, make a round of all the stalls to check out everything. Bring your own cloth bags and plenty of small change. If you are worried about being overcharged, make a mental note of prices at your regular supermarket. Smile, have fun, and eat well.

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