Has anyone else noticed that the quality of GII Wonton’s huntun has taken a sharp nosedive? These are the once-delightful slippery-skinned beauties that Shanghai has proudly called its answer to the Dongbei shuijiao, made by the no-frills yellow-and-red themed chain launched by now-millionaire Zhang Biao. GII Wonton has provided a solid, tasty, steaming hot meal for only 5-8 kuai for year after year, specifically since 1999, when they launched their first store on Renmin Lu in Jing’an. They now have over 500 branches in China (94 in Shanghai), and have grand plans to reach 1000 by the end of the year.

But, I’m guessing since food prices have shot through the roof (I bought a quart of milk from the supermarket today for 23 kuai…) they have been cutting back on the quality of their, well, everything: the flour they are using in the skins—the skins are now thick and doughy rather than sleek and shiny; the pork they are grinding for the filling—the meat is not as tender or as xiang as it once was. And in particular, I’ve noticed the filling of the yanpi “eyelid skin” shrimp wontons (see pic) has deterioriated remarkably: it's now saltier, less fresh-tasting, and unpleasantly chewy. Is this all in my head, or has anyone else noted a huntun decline?

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