It’s fair to say that our expectations were no higher than a 11.5 inch plastic doll when we whirred up the laughing elevator to B Bar on the top floor of the The Barbie Store.

Babi Wawa might have great legs for a 50-year-old, but what did she know about mixing a cocktail? We envisaged a parade of DayGlo concoctions, light on booze and heavy on sugar syrup, pink umbrellas and curly straws.

But Babs bitch-slapped that smug grin off our face. The kitsch looks of the Artsy Martini (ignore the name–it’s named after a new doll) belied a strong, creamy concoction that tasted of coconut, but, somehow, wasn’t coconut.

“It’s vodka, lychee syrup and milk,” confided Hayes Zhou, the man who designed the cocktail menu. “When mixed with milk, lychee tastes like coconut, but it’s lighter.”

He’s right. It was that creamy coconut flavor, but without the thick, plodding sweetness. What a revelation–a bright, fresh flavor born out of the synthesis of lychee and milk. It was enough to make a grown man run drunkenly around a toy shop, screaming “fabulous” and scaring the children.