★★★★✩

Memories of Judy’s former, grungier home down the street recede as you step into this sleek, geometrical space kindled with candlelight.

Downstairs are high tables and a stage behind the bar with live music every night. Drinks are mid-priced (beers start at RMB35, spirits at RMB45) and there’s a full menu of Western bar food served until the wee hours.

For a more private setting, head upstairs for sofas, MTV, pool, gogo poles and a place to people-watch patrons below. We can just about overlook the lack of a dancefloor and celebrate this as the new face of a harmonized Tongren Lu.

■ Bunny Yan