Italian
Trattoria Isabelle
139 Xingan Lu, near Yandang Lu
兴安路139号, 近雁荡路
T: 5386-0827

Food: 5 out of 5
Atmosphere: 5 out of 5
Service: 5 out of 5
Down a tiny road off Yandang Pedestrian Street waits a cozy and classy, flavorful and affordable new place decked out in three storeys of dark-wood paneling, large windows, white walls, and red and white-checkered tablecloths. Rounding the corner from Yandang, Trattoria's facade sticks out in a very good way.

While browsing the menu of starters, salads, mains, and pastas, you might pinch yourself when you see smoked salmon at Y18. Salivate in disbelief when it arrives served with a silky blend of capers, roe, and sour cream. The carpaccio (Y22) laced with olive oil, cream, and capers is an equally melt-in-your-mouth starter.

The salad offerings include a standard tomato and feta, but also a more exciting minced beef salad. It sounds unusual but works fantastically with unctuous avocado and a selection of three excellently mixed house dressings (Y38).

Isabella also serves several types of pasta, all priced around Y30, accompanied by your choice of sauces including seafood and tomato, garlic and olive oil, and bolognaise.

Perhaps their best creation, however, is the baked wrapped cod (Y68). This fish isn't wrapped in bacon, though that's a good suggestion, instead it's cooked in a paper container that can only be described as a culinary envelope. Opening the package reveals the tender and soft flavors of prawns, clams, tomatoes, peppers, and shallots, which compliment the smooth cod fillet.

Wash all these treats down with a reasonably priced dry, red Spanish wine (Y68 for the bottle or Y18 for the glass). A white is available for the same price. The desserts, however, were not as tantalizing with a not-so-cheesy cheesecake and a black forest cake that's a tad medicinal. But who's complaining with stomachs soothed and wallets still weighty.