Best of Shanghai
Sometimes chaotic, sometimes inspiring, sometimes unpredictable and always enigmatic, Shanghai has a talent for ensnaring the imagination and ambitions of the masses. At City Weekend we love our city, and to prove it, we have scouted the places, people and things, that in their own words, define Shanghai's best. It is the little marvels that impress the most, and throughout the following pages CW details the best hidden treasures this town has to offer–from historic architecture to Shanghai's classiest bathroom, from Persian rugs to street food test-runs. Find out where the best place is to get a pair of shoes made, bargain for live lobster, or join a one-man subway band. Whether you want to commission your own Warhol or a mini statue of you, we brave alligators and roll on water to bring you the Best of Shanghai. Enjoy.

Best Place to Watch a Cricket Fight

Gentlemen, Place Your Bets

The tamely named “[Xizang Lu] Flower and Bird Market” makes it easy to decide to minimize your exposure to bird flu; during summer though, a special trait of this market—cricket fighting—makes it worth the risk. Weave your way to the back of the enclosure and break into the dispersed groups of enthusiastic men and catch a glimpse of Chinese cricket-fighting. This more National Geographic side of Shanghai lets you in on a bit of Chinese history and local flavor. Fight to the front of the group and pick a fight with pajama-clad locals over your favorite death-hungry insect. Xizang Lu, near Dongtai Lu


Best Place to Get a Mini-You

An Idol Worship Statue for A Personal Shrine

If in need of a kitschy gift or just another idol, make sure to pay a visit to What-A-Cute-Mini-Me. A tiny stall among many at Yuyuan, this shop is home to the look-alike king whose craft is sculpting a mound of clay into a five-inch version of you, a skill passed down from his father and grandfather. A picture and twenty minutes is all you need for Li Jian Guo to work his magic. Make sure to get those creative juices flowing as you can have your doll sculpted into any pose with an assortment of accessories. Town God Temple, 138-1827-8848


Best Place to Get Fresh Seafood

When Sushi Just Isn't Fresh Enough

Tucked away in Putuo District lies a hidden treasure known to most Shanghainese but virtually unheard of amongst foreigners– the Tongchuan Lu seafood market. Two blocks lined with fish vendors await your perusal. After bargaining hard for your seafood of choice, take your black plastic bag full of still-flopping fish or crustaceans to the nearby restaurants who will cook up your catch however you like. It doesn’t get much fresher than this. Tongchuan Lu


Best place to see crocodiles

Playing Steve Irwin

Xuancheng, in Anhui, is home to one of the world's most endangered reptiles, the freshwater Yangzi alligator, disappearing due to habitat loss. Close up, their heads look strangely like sheep, but they are much less docile. Don't fear, they usually prey on smaller mammals. That said, you might want to leave Jr. at home. You can see them at the Research Centre for Chinese Alligator Reproduction. (05-63) 304-1270 / 308-4270


Best One-Man Band

Whistle, Stomp and Blow

Looking for some great live music, but a little stretched for cash? Forget about heading to some of the live music venues in Shanghai; use this opportunity to find the local busker. Located across the web of the metro line, this charming musician plays from station to station. His repertoire ranges from classic Chinese ballads to up-tempo western pop songs, and his performance is always energetic and heartfelt if not necessarily finely tuned. All you need to do is grab a group of friends, some beer from the local Kedi, and you have created your own rock concert for under ¥20. Lighters are optional. Lujiazui metro station (usually)




Best Place for Henna Tattoos

Temporary Inking

Thinking of getting a tattoo, but are afraid it will painfully end up like Angelina Jolie's "Billy Bob?" Try henna, also known as Mehndi, at APSARA Spa. Choose from Contemporary, Indian or Middle Eastern designs, or bring in your own. The technicians, with art backgrounds, were trained for months before being allowed to perform on customers. Depending on your skin type and the part of the body, the tattoos generally stay on for two to three weeks–just enough time for you to find a new design to accentuate the abs you've been working on all spring, or your ankle on the new strappy sandal. 6258-5580


Best Pole Dancer

Twirl for Me, Baby

Jacqueline Davis is used to hearing people clap for her. A lot. And as one-half of Shanghai's only male/female pole dancing duo, the applause is more than justified. This blend of dancing, acrobatics and rather stunning feats of strength leaves her audience either speechless or whistling their heads off. The Aussie native picked up the skill on her own as an exotic dancer then imported it to Shanghai several years ago, honing her skills down to several mesmerizing routines. For those eager to try, be thankful this goddess of the pole likes to share—in addition to her regular performances at I Love Shanghai, she tutors adventurous souls with individual and private lessons. Her twin dragon tattoos and eighteen body piercings only add to her aura, creating what undisputedly amounts to be one of Shanghai's most exciting entertainers.
poleshanghai@gmail.com


Best Shoemaker

The Poor (Wo)man's Manolos

A bit of a hidden gem, as many people are still recommending a shoemaker with a similar name (go at your own risk to that one), The Wang Hand Craft is where you can have the best custom made shoes created to your satisfaction from start to finish. With a central and convenient location, you should have no problem making an appointment. While the prices are not the cheapest for custom made shoes, running between ¥500-900, the range of imported leathers to choose from is well worth it. The best part is that they courier your shoes to you instead of making you pick them up at inconvenient hours. Try and get there soon, and enjoy the few short weeks' wait, before they get really busy! 11 Xianxia Lu, near Yan’an Lu 6229-3916


Best Art Replicas

Warhol's First China Experience

Nestled amongst tiny galleries vending everything from picture frames to curtain rods, from the outside You Zhi Bin's gallery hardly stands out. Yet it's what's inside that makes a trip there worthwhile–this cozy space is chock full of commissioned art that patrons bring for Zhi Bin to copy. Bring a photo of your favorite painting and have it masterfully recreated to the size of your choice. While you're there, check out the wide variety of artworks on display, in styles from Van Gogh to Warhol. Of special note: for comic-book fanatics, be sure to browse through his line of Tin Tin paintings, a true collector's item. 137-0166-0356


Best Persian Rug Expert

The Magic Carpet Princess

Lynn Yekiazarian has found her niche collecting and selling new and antique Persian rugs. Situated in the heart of Puxi, Mortazavy, her store of two years, is already a household name among expats and locals alike. The store houses over one hundred rugs delivered from various cities throughout Iran, each handpicked by Yekiazarian. The history of the rugs and the stories that unfold behind their intricate detailing drew Yekiazarian to share her love of Persian rugs with those around her. Diversity in the woven patterns and colors makes each of these masterpieces a stunning and unique piece of art. 6467-3556


Best Street Food

The Budding Food Critic's Dream

Wujiang Lu's plethora of local food vendors will overwhelm your senses. This pedestrian walkway is a block of pure heaven for those who want a little taste of original Chinese flavor. The majority of the family-run storefronts offer delectable local fares for only ¥5, making this the spot to go for a cheap and oh-so-delicious meal. Try out the ever popular dumplings from Yang’s Fried Dumplings. A visit at night will provide an even livelier scene when other local vendors join in the throng, selling their wares. Wujiang Lu (near Shimen Yi Lu)


The Best Bathroom

Going in Style

Despite the glitz and über modernity that accompanies life in such a fast-paced city, we occasionally yearn for something classic, timeless, and ruggedly handsome. Enter Whampoa Club, a throwback to 1920s Shanghai complete with one of the city's most stylish bathrooms. Rich mahogany paneling and Western furniture pieces are seamlessly integrated with Chinese touches like oriental prints and classic tiling. The bathrooms contain all original pieces from Shanghai's glory days in the 1920s, a tribute to the wealth and glamor that pervaded the city's establishments. A central fireplace commands the attention of the entire bathroom, creating the illusion that one is doing one's business in a study rather than a restroom. In essence, it's the quintessential image of mahogany-paneled state rooms and cigar smoke with a classy Chinese twist.
Three on the Bund, 5/Fl, No. 3 Zhongshan Dong Er Lu


Best Place to Roll on Water

Out of My Way, Moses!

For those who cannot walk a few steps without stumbling, then perhaps the clear plastic bubbles at Changfeng Park are not the ideal day out. However, for the groups of people who like to create their own miracles, or even embrace their inner hamster, then this is the place for you. For a mere ¥25, you can step out onto a pool of water in the safety confines a transparent ball and (attempt to) walk on water. For the romantics, there is even the two-person bubble option, so you and your loved one can feel the gentle waves rock up as you cavort around in your ball. Changfeng Lu, Pudong


Best Mommy and Me Photography

Baby Says Cheese

A picture speaks a thousand words—especially one that captures the playfulness of your child. Both moms and kiddies agree–photographer Don Yap is able to capture the laughter of both big and little kids alike and most likely, that twinkle in the eye, too. "I've gone to other studios before, but this one is different because unlike local studios, they take very natural photos and they do it through play," says mom Candy Lim. "We can't decide on which shot we want!" barefootportraits@gmail.com, 136-3649-9378




Best Place to Get Free Books

Wilde Snagging

Meet up with other bookish cliques, discuss the latest favorites, and swap books with the others over a cup of java at Figaro Coffee. Joining is easy, free, and the BookCrossing shelves are filled with books awaiting new homes. The library of Figaro Nanjing Lu branch is open on weekdays, while the Xintiandi branch is always open, and both branches accept drop-offs at anytime. Meetings are held on the third Saturday of the month, from 2 p.m. onwards, at the Xingye Lu branch. info@figarocoffee.com.


Best Place to Breathe in Some Fresh Air

Leave the Mask at Home

Finding countryside around Shanghai that is not heavily industrialized or polluted is difficult but not impossible. Xuancheng in southeastern Anhui province is just three hours from Shanghai by bus but seems like another world. Just an hour outside the city center you can hire a raft and float peacefully down the river past beautiful natural scenery and swim in water clear enough to see the pebbly bottom below. In this "undiscovered" part of the Yangzi Delta seldom frequented by tourists, you can even glimpse a velvet-black starry sky. Yueliang Wan (Moon River Park), accessible by taxi from Xuancheng.


My Bests

Restauranteur Michelle Garnaut of M on the Bund and the Glamour Bar knows a thing or two about dining and wining in Shanghai. With a culinary career spanning 25 years she also knows plenty of other great things that our city has to offer.

Best Walk in the City

This starts from my apartment [in Embankment House, on the Suzhou Creek], along the creek, past the fabulous Shanghai Post Office, then cross the old bridge (pausing a minute to look at the Pudong skyscrapers). Then, I continue past some of the best historic buildings in Shanghai: the old British American Tobacco building, the old YMCA offices, the former Capitol Theater, maybe down Yuanmingyuan Lu and the old missionary offices, and then along the Bund to my office at M on the Bund.

Best Place for Vintage Clothes

This can be found on in Cang Bao Lou on 459 Fangbang Lu, fourth floor. Most of this market is junk, but the treasures are in the back of this floor. Just ask, and they'll pull out bags full of the most amazing clothes from 1930s Shanghai–vintage fabrics, exquisitely sewn qipaos and changpaos, hats still in their hatboxes from Wing On. They also have great vintage cookbooks, sometimes, too!

Best Way to Get to Pudong

I often make trips over to the other side of the Huangpu, and the best way is definitely on the techno Bund Tourist Tunnel. It's all flash and dash, which is really what Pudong is all about, and now you can even visit the Sex Museum (on the Pudong side)!

Best Way to Get Around Shanghai

Speaking of getting around town, the best way to get around Shanghai is by "Red Flag," or Hong Qi taxis, the makers of China's own limos.


As co-founder of the Save Shanghai Heritage Association and owner of the Shanghai Propaganda Poster Art Centre, Yang Pei Ming is a strong advocate of historical preservation.

Best Place for History-Buffs to See a Real Piece of Shanghai

I grew up in the longtangs of Shanghai. Where is the real Shanghai? Where is the local Shanghai? Longtangs. The longtangs at the Chang Family Garden, just a ways east from the Portman Ritz-Carlton, were built in the 1920s. Well-preserved, they even have the original art-deco. It's also one of the few places where you can see a Communist slogan painted on a wall but you need to know where to look. It fades more and more every time they wash the walls.

Best Collection of Original Dazibao

I think I have one of the best collections of dazibao (brush pen handwritten posters) in Shanghai. These were invented by Mao Zedong and hung on announcement boards in universities and neighborhoods. My favorites are the ones that you can see have been pulled off the wall. This is not well-known history, but it's an extremely important part of our cultural heritage. Shanghai Propaganda Poster Art Centre, www.shanghaipropagandaart.com


At first glance, Li Chen would seem like a regular guy—down-to-earth and cool. However, on a closer look, you’ll realize he’s not just any man. The acclaimed VJ from Channel V (a.k.a the guy presenting the videos on the taxi screens) is a true insider and has always a good tip when it comes to shopping, eating and launching onto stardom.

Best Place to Shop

Shanghai is a great city–especially to spend money. You can find nearly anything you want in Shanghai. Changle Lu is probably one of my favorite places to shop. Running down from Chengdu Lu up to Changshu Lu, you can find incredible one-off urban fashion opportunities. Just look at my t-shirt!

On Ordering in and KTV

I love international cuisine, and Shanghai is perfect for picking up a pizza or sampling a good steak. My goal is to taste all of the delicious foods in the world! At the channel [V] we usually order Papa John’s, simple and delicious—it reminds me of those cheesy treats I tried in the U.S. For after-work fun, I guess there’s always KTV (yes!), my favorite one is Party World on Wulumuqi Lu, they’re good friends and always have a table with good drinks, food and my song on cue. I can’t say which one, though, you’ll just have to come sometime.


Posted Jul 3rd 2007 12:21p.m. by Shanghai City Weekend
filed under City Feature

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