A visit to Taikang Lu's Lane 248 inspires a bittersweet feeling. The sprawl of eclectic shops, each bursting with individual personality, expresses what could have been in many more of Shanghai's old neighborhoods which instead have become skyscrapers or manicured shopping districts filled with international name brands. Here are jewelry shops, interior and fashion designers, tea houses. New shops continue to open, one-by-one, organically in the lane's original buildings. The alleyway, which winds about, maze-like, has a folksy vibe that is more down-to-earth Sanlitun or Bohemian Dali than Shanghai.

Fittingly, "It's been a long time coming," plays on the stereo as I sit in Bohemia Café, a narrow room with natural timber tables, brick walls and a smiling waitress who brings ice water without being asked. A perfect, simple sandwich arrives. Fresh farmer's bread, just in that morning, has a crunch in the crust–it's stuffed with ham, a generous portion of Swiss cheese and roasted onions. Include a soda and you're only out ¥45.

Around the corner is the tiny chocolate shop Truffle & Sweets opened by Shanghainese Anita Jin, a former Sofitel pastry chef. She handmakes the chocolates right there on the marble countertop. The chocolates are expensive, but the quality is indisputable and your candy consumption supports a local entrepreneur. Her jasmine truffles dissolve, silky and fragrant, on the tongue. Jin also offers home visits to teach chocolate and cookie-making. The neighboring Miss Ginger has homey tasty fare, and a warm-hued inviting interior. The lemongrass, orange and mint tea wins fans, although it's a mite pricey for a glass half filled with ice (¥38).

If you find the little wooden sign which reads "Simply the Best Coffee," you have truly arrived at the epitome of homey cafés. The bookshelves, sofa and galley-style kitchen make it obvious you are entering someone's home. A few people sit at cramped tables working on laptops. No one stands, no one glances up. "Umm, do you have the best coffee here?" I ask hesitantly. "Yes, the best," the proprietor replies in an unconcerned, assured manner. After some prodding, he acquiesces to brew a cup for me, which he does by hand, unhurriedly, precisely, meticulously. Is it the best? Yes, simply.

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