I'm not sure when it happened, but somewhere down the line fusion went from being an exciting, fresh interplay of Eastern and Western flavors to being a swear word. Yet, perhaps like dotcoms, the cuisine can be resurrected and given a chance to salvage its reputation. Sometimes fusion isn't only in the food, but in the chef's background and focus.

Justin Quek, a native Singaporean, studied in France and grew to be a celebrated French cuisine master in Singapore. His venture in Shanghai, Le Platane (French), showcases French classics, with a few Asian experiments (foie gras xiaolongbao!), yet Quek says his service is geared toward the local crowd. "I've trained classically in terms of French cuisine but I understand the Chinese palate. A lot of Chinese here don't understand French food, but I can use Mandarin to explain dishes. In Asia, people want face, people feel good if they know the chef." Quek's suckling pig is flawlessly cooked, sticky with fat and crisp beyond belief. The Grand Marnier soufflé is perfectly puffed with a crystalline, almost chewy, crust of sugar hugging the airy pudding.

American Brad Turley, a familiar name from his earlier posts at New Heights and 239, is now cooking at uber-cool white-leather-walled Maneo (Fusion). Turley began honing his formidable Asian chops back in 1994 under fusion innovator Roy Yamaguchi in Hawaii. "That's when I learned about Asian ingredients,” Turley says. “Hawaii is the epicenter of the Asian melting pot.” Today, Turley has mastered his technique; every dish I try on his menu brings a range of flavors–and especially textures–together, and there isn't an off note among them.

The Asian broiled short rib is juicy and layered. It's worth ordering this dish just for the horseradish potato puree. Seared prawn and scallop with miso chili buerre blanc comes on a remarkable buttery edamame puree, another delectable combination of rich flavors. An obviously devoted regular at the next table volunteers, "Turley's got quite a cult following. He takes what we call at home 'comfort food' and turns it up a notch." Chai tea crème brûlée arrives, an earthy cardamom perfume wafting over it like an aromatic cloud. We fight over the last bite.

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