Olympic fever is over and we all need a break. Here are 15 great holidays in China, Asia and Shanghai's own backyard
By Robert Niles, Irene Sun, Rosario Juan and City Weekend Editors
Asia
Koyasan | Japan
Buddhist retreat
Just over an hour outside of Osaka lies the mountain town of Koyasan, where a hundred temples pepper the area and the stillness in the air reminds you that simplicity really is best. From the Namba Metro Station in Osaka, take the Nankai Koya Line train (850-1,610 Yen for Limited or Express train) to the Gokurakubashi station. From there, a cable car up to Koyasan (380 Yen) and a 10-minute bus ride will bring you into the town center of Koyasan, the center of Shingon Buddhism. Experience shukubo, temple lodging at the beautiful 100-year-old Ekoin Temple, where dinner and breakfast of shojin ryori vegetarian cuisine are included (9,500 Yen). Or, venture into town where a charming homestyle eatery buzzes with great food (and sake), managed by an older Japanese couple. Post-meal, hit the tatami early to be ready for the traditional Buddhist ceremony and an enlightening fire ceremony (Goma) at 6am the next morning. Before you leave, take a walk around to visit sites such as the Great Pagoda Kompon Daito, ponder at graves of Buddhist greats and pick up some dehydrated tofu, a Koyasan specialty, to remember the healthy attitude of body and mind that this special town evokes.
Ekoin Temple
Add: Koyasan 497, Koya-cho, Ito-gun
Tel: (07-36) 56-2514 Web: www.koyasan.org
Jeju Island | Korea
Island Paradise
Jeju Island, already a popular tourist destination among Koreans, is quickly becoming a hotspot for vacationers worldwide. The lush tropical surroundings are ideal for the outdoor enthusiast, offering dozens of trails to hike and caves to explore as well as spectacular scuba diving. As the highest peak in South Korea, the 360-degree ocean views from atop the dormant volcano Halla-san and the beauty of the crater lake at its peak make it worth the hike. For the less outdoorsy traveler, spend a lazy weekend asleep on one of Jeju's many white sand beaches or enjoy the island's natural beauty from the comfort of your hotel room's terrace. Check out the centrally located Hyatt Regency Jeju or the luxurious and secluded Shilla Jeju. Or, book Country Holidays' (3222-0616, www.countryholidays.com.cn) South Korea tour and see all the sites, from the Yakchosan Temple, the largest Zen Buddhist temple in Asia, to the island's traditional markets.
Hyatt Regency Jeju
Add: 039-1 Saekdal-song, Seogwipo-s
Tel: (82-64) 733-1234
Shilla Jeju
Tel: (82-64) 735-5114
Email: reserve@shilla.net
Osh | Kyrgyzstan
Super Market
Residents of Osh, close to the Uzbek border in southwest Kyrgyzstan, boast that their bustling little city pre-dates Rome. A wide array of historical heavyweights from King Solomon to Alexander the Great are credited with laying its foundations, with claims backed up by the discovery of arifacts over 2,500 years old. Today, Kyrgyzstan's second largest metropolis is home to one of Central Asia's most vibrant and ethnically diverse markets. Bustling with Kyrgyz, Uzbek and Tajik traders who peddle everything from fermented horse milk (kymyz) to beautifully hand-crafted felt carpets (shyrdaks), Osh's sprawling Jayma Bazaar is the perfect place to immerse yourself in the colorful Kyrgyz culture. Indeed, after getting lost in the market's labyrinth of over-laden stalls, it's not hard to picture the city as the vital Silk Route trade hub that it once was. The Jayma Bazaar spreads out along the Ak-Buura River in Osh's northern suburbs and is good for a full half-day of exploring. Temperatures soar by mid-day, so get up early to wander around. Walk the length of Zaina Betinova Street and you'll see Kyrgyz babushkas haggling over fruit, vegetables and smoked fish, while young boys push pram-like trolleys of nan bread fresh from their clay tandoors. The market itself is divided into distinct parts, with a covered area housing a variety of stalls selling fresh and dried fruit and nuts. Local favorites include plump raisins, sweet pistachios and succulent apricots. Meander past pyramids of honeycomb and dried yogurt balls (kurut) to the open air section where canny negotiators pick up a traditional black and white felt hat for a couple of dollars. When your budget's exhausted, riverside taverns offer freshly grilled shashlik (kebabs), sticky plov (mutton and rice) and bowls of kymyz for the adventurous.
Gorod Apartments
Add: 18a Zaina Betinova Street
Tel: (996) 2-49-24
Cost: (US$20-40)
Sabah | Malaysia
Rainforest Trekking
Borneo, the world's third largest island with one of the few remaining areas of large-scale original forest in Southeast Asia, is the place for eco-everything. Administered by three different countries, Borneo is an incredible mix not only of biodiversity but of cultures, languages and people. Go with Borneo Nature Tours, a government operated company that has worked with the World Wildlife Fund and BBC in the areas of eco-education, research and preservation, to Malaysian Sabah, the heart of Borneo. Packages include guided tours, housing, food and transport. Novices should head to Danum Valley while the more adventurous types should venture to the mysterious Malieu Basin, a rich ecological catchment which was first explored in 1988. Stay in a private chalet steps away from the forest paths. Treks lead past waterfalls, natural Jacuzzis and the spooky burial grounds of nomadic tribes. Stay quiet and you'll be rewarded with glimpses of the rare wildlife indigenous to the country like the endangered orangutan, the Asian elephant, the clouded leopard or the rare Sumatran rhinoceros. Be sure to go on a night safari and gaze at the stars above the canopy. Caution: Leeches are unavoidable in the rainforest–bring leech socks and salt.
Borneo Nature
Tours Tel: (60) 8988-0207
Web: www.borneonaturetours.com
Bangkok | Thailand
Economic Luxury
Bangkok's luxury hotel deals provide options for experiencing this Thai capital in style. As far as location goes, with rooms starting at ¥2,600, The Sukhotai is hard to beat. This opulent resort is located within walking distance of many of Bangkok's main attractions. But thanks to its spa, Spa Botanica, named as one of the best spas in the world by Condé Nast Traveler, it may be tough for you to ever leave the hotel. If you're looking to shop, the Amari Watergate Hotel, with rooms from ¥2,080, is a prime place from which to begin your buying excursions. Its central location in Pratunam is within walking distance of Bangkok's best shopping at Sukhumvit and Siam Square. Bring an extra suitcase for all of your new purchases.
The Sukhotai
Add: 13/3 South Sathorn Road
Tel: 66 (0) 2344-8888
Amari Watergate Hotel
Add: 847 Petchburi Road
Tel: 66 (0) 2653-9000
Beijing | China to Tokyo | Japan
Slow Boat to Japan
In the era of instant travel, taking the long road is a luxury. This five-day trek takes you from Beijing to Tokyo without ever leaving the water. An overnight sleeper takes you to the port city of Dalian. From there, the Da-in Ferry (US$60, economy class) makes the 16-hour passage to Incheon, Korea, three times a week. Down beers and slap shoulders with Korean traders taking advantage of the seemingly limitless baggage allowance to stock up on cheap Chinese products. The next day, hundreds of small islands and dozens of fishing boats mark your arrival in Korea. A short taxi trip to the train station and a metro ride later brings you to Seoul. Pick up the Korean-Japanese through ticket which includes the ferry crossing to Japan and travel to most cities in Japan via the Shinkansen train. Bed down in one of the affordable hostels in the Jongno-Sam-Ga dictrict. The next day, take the KTX high speed train to Pusan. It's compact, so go ahead and walk the mile to the ferry terminal. Pick up a bowl of bibimbap (rice mixed with vegetables, fried egg and minced beef) at the fish market on the way. With a through-ticket, you don't get to choose your bunk mate so upgrade to first class if you can. As dusk sets in, Korea's second busiest port turns into a sea of glimmering lights. Twelve hours later, you're in Japan. After passing customs, grab your bag and hop aboard the local train to Shin-Shimonoseki for the connection to Tokyo. Let the magic begin.
China
Yangshuo | Guangxi Province
Climbing Walls
Back in the 1990s, famed climber Todd Skinner bolted the region's first routes at the famous tourist site of Moon Hill. Now Yangshuo boasts a small but well-developed climbing community and a well-respected local outfitter, ChinaClimb. The soaring karst rocks, sleepy paddy fields and billowing mist form a dramatic backdrop for this dangerous sport. There are hundreds of established routes in dozens of different locations, all catalogued in a guidebook available from ChinaClimb. Novice climbers start at a rock called Wine Bottle, a 15-minute bike ride from the tourist center of Yangshuo and starting point for over 20 routes of varying degrees of difficulty. Experienced climbers beeline for the White Mountain, a 60 meter tall cliff home to over 30 challenging routes, even to the most experienced climbers. White Mountain is Yangshuo's climbing showpiece for professionally-sponsored teams. The cliff resembles the face of a giant wave while its backdrop of orchards, rice paddies and sleepy water buffalo lend it a uniquely Chinese atmosphere. Climbing is something the whole family can do. Baby Frog is a family favorite for its selection of beginner and intermediate routes and accessibility to town. Plus, there are excellent swimming, biking and trekking routes nearby.
ChinaClimb
Tel: (773) 881-1033
Web: www.chinaclimb.com
Qingdao | Shandong Province
Tsingtao Pride
It's China's own Oktoberfest and what better place is there to celebrate everybody's favorite bubbly beverage than Qingdao, home to China's best-known brewery. Whether you're a discriminating connoisseur of pilsner and pale ale or just one of the beer-loving masses, the Qingdao International Beer Festival has plenty of cold ones to please all palates, from a wide selection of international beers to an ample supply of the hometown favorite, Tsingtao. Started in 1991 by the Tsingtao Brewery, the festival normally takes place during the second weekend of August, but was postponed this year (go figure) and will run from Sept. 19 to Oct. 5, giving you a great excuse to keep summer festivities going long after the heat is over. Don't miss the sometimes bizarre performances, excessive amount of food, and dozens of beer tastings and drinking competitions in the aptly named Beer City (195 Xianggang Dong Lu), the center of the festival. Expect to be treated to a round, or several, by excited (read: inebriated) locals. "With the city's infrastructure upgraded as a result of the Olympics, there's never been a better time to engage in a few days of shameless hedonism and endless 'ganbei's!'" says Marc Mekki, general manager of Mandarin Journeys (info@mandarinjourneys.com, www.mandarinjourneys.com). Mandarin Journeys runs a weekend trip to the festival (from ¥3,000) which includes a tour of the city, two nights at the Shangri-La Hotel and a day of detox at one of Qingdao's beautiful beaches. Though the festival is hopping throughout its two week duration, the Opening Ceremony on Sept. 19 and Carnival of Gluttony (aka the Closing Ceremony) on Oct. 5 are particularly memorable. Just be sure to book early because hotel rooms fill up quickly.
Grace Vineyard | Shanxi Province
The Grape Escape
Located in Taigu County, 40 km south of the provincial capital Taiyuan, this Napa-esque getaway vineyard's 200 hectares grow seven French-imported grape varieties at 900 meters above sea level. After reserving at least a month in advance (advised during high season from June-October), visitors fly into Taiyuan where they can arrange to be picked up (¥100). The vineyard preserves an intimate feeling by maintaining only eight guest rooms (¥300 per twin room per night, meals not included). Start with a half-day guided tour of China's first world-class winery and vineyard and then spend the afternoon in tastings, taking in the mountain vistas, glass in hand. Later, enjoy an evening meal where local food is paired with the wine you're now an expert on. After a day spent exploring the vineyard, rest up and have the vineyard staff arrange some local sightseeing for you. Grace Vineyard's proximity to popular natural and cultural sites is also one of its main draws. Pack in as much as you can and see Yungang Cave, Wutai and Heng Mountain as well as cultural sights like Jin Ancestral Hall, the ancient Pingyao City and the Qiao, Qu and Chang family compounds, all built during the Ming Dynasty.
Grace Vineyard
Tel: 354-644-9188
Email: contact@grace-vineyard.com
Duliu River | Guizhou Province
White Water Wild
Nestled in the rugged mountains of southeast Guizhou is the Duliu River, a picturesque channel that runs through some of the last true minority regions of China. The Duliu was once the lifeblood for traditional Dong, Miao and Zhuang ethnic minorities; it's now been discovered as a kayaker's dream. The area is rapidly developing a reputation as a destination for adventure travelers after a true backcountry experience. This 200 km kayak journey follows the Duliu River from Sandu city to the cultural hub of Congjiang. With convenient access to a main road, it offers class three white water and rewarding cultural interaction without the anxiety of complete isolation. A visit to Basha village, 7 km southwest of Conjiang, is a must upon completion of the journey. Basha is a living museum; in 2002 it was listed as one of the 10 main culture villages of Guizhou. Basha's Miao minority, which believes their race was born from the stem of a maple leaf, still lead traditional, subsistence lives. Men shave their heads, keeping a long, central section to twist and comb into a hugun knot. Women wear their hair in a coil decorated with a wooden comb and dress in black cotton clothes embroidered with lace. Men above 15 are granted government permission to carry rifles that, although not used for hunting, are still functional and regularly used in cultural ceremonies. It won't be long before this spectacular trip gains the widespread attention it deserves.
ChinaClimb
Tel: (773) 881-1033
Web: www.chinaclimb.com
Shanghai to Beijing
Taste of China
There's no better way to get to know a place than through eating. In nine days (Nov. 8-18), you'll eat your way from the avant-garde fusion delights at Paul Pairet's Jade on 36 in Shanghai to hearty northern cuisine in the shadow of the Great Wall. For host Jonathan Hasson of Luxury Concierge, the goal is a "rich experience of the refinement of China." Highlights include a meal of southern cuisine served in the middle of a bamboo forest near Moganshan, as well as a feast mounted in one of Suzhou's famous classically-styled gardens. These authentic culinary experiences provide unique insight into Chinese tradition and taste. When you're not eating, you'll be treated to exclusive introductions to Chinese contemporary art, architecture and design under the guidance of experts, exactly what Luxury Concierge is known for.
Luxury Concierge China
Tel: 135-0166-2908
Web: info@luxuryconciergechina.com
Chengdu | Sichuan Province
Road to Recovery
Sometimes travel isn't about you, it's about them. This four-day trip to Chengdu exposes you to the realities of the Sichuan earthquake, while your tourism dollars help revive a devastated local economy. A visit to the Chengdu Panda Breeding and Research Center aside, the highlight of the trip is undoubtedly the Jianchuan Museum, specifically its Wenchuan Earthquake exhibit. It's one of the most powerful representations of the devastation you're likely to see, much more graphic than anything you saw on TV, making it one of the most unique museums in all of China. Since it's opened, it's gone from 100 visitors a day to over a thousand. The photos and artifacts narrate the first 30 days following the earthquake. An entire wall of photos of dead children contrasts another wall of Post-It notes bearing expressions of hope juxtaposed against concrete walls, making an incredibly powerful monument to the fragility of life. John McKenna of Travel the Real China calls it "awesomely gruesome." Everyone who sees it leaves unbelievably moved.
Travel the Real China
Tel: 135-8563-6884
Web: www.Travel-the-Real-China.com
Lhasa | Tibet
That Holy Feeling
Christmas in Lhasa? You must be kidding! Not at all. Turns out that Christmas, when Lhasa is devoid of tourist hordes and blessed with crystalline blue skies, is the perfect time to experience Tibetan magic. With a sturdy down jacket, Lhasa's December temperatures are bearable and when the afternoon sun is out, it's actually comfortable–the perfect time for visiting Jokang Monastery, one of Lhasa's must-see temples. In the large square in front, marvel at the sight of hundreds of Tibetan nomads praying. That's what Tibetans do in the winter, when it's too cold to tend herds. Country Holidays, which runs this tour (Dec. 26-30, ¥9,980), also arranges a unique Puja blessing ceremony where visitors are presented with white Hata streamers as a sign of welcome. According to Teck Heok of Country Holidays, Puja is an unforgettable highlight for visitors who walk away with a feeling of "indescribable holiness." Lhasa at Christmas is a place of serenity and sacredness, a special moment in an unusual year.
Country Holidays
Tel: 3222-0616
Web: www.countryholidays.com.cn
Shanghai's Backyard
Nanjing | Jiangsu Province
Purple Haze
Historically one of China's most important cities, Nanjing boasts natural beauty with historical flair. Though the summer heat is legendarily scorching, by early autumn the temperatures have decreased. Purple Mountain, named after the purplish haze that envelops the mountain at dawn and at dusk, is home to many of Nanjing's most popular attractions, including the Ming Tombs. Avoid the crowds and forego the main landmarks and choose to make the short more challenging hike down to Purple Cloud Lake, a serene and secluded spot on the mountain that begs you to jump in for a private swim (and tactfully overlook the "No Swim" signs). While you're there, stay at the well-located Sheraton Nanjing.
Sheraton Nanjing
Add: 169 Hanzhong Lu
Tel: (025) 8666-8888
Taihu | Jiangsu Province
Tai Surprise
Taihu, the third largest body of freshwater in China, offers some of the country's most beautiful scenery. Take a trip to Xi'shan, the largest island on Taihu, for a weekend of lakeside walks, hiking and boating on your own or as part of a SISU family-oriented tour (www.sisucycling.com, 5059-6071). Visitors can enjoy an afternoon of picking tea leaves and fruit before a leisurely walk across the local tea hills and orange orchards. For a challenging hike, venture to the top of Piaomiao Peak for a bird's eye view of the island. Cycle to old villages on the island, or stay in a local nongjiale (a local farmer's house) for ¥50-100 a night. Western-style hotels range from the Xi'shan Hotel for ¥580 a night, to the Baodao Garden Hotel for a luxurious experience at ¥1,050.
Xi'shan Hotel
Add: Xishan, Shigongshan Suzhou
Tel: (0512) 6627-8888
Baodao Garden Hotel
Add: Changsha Island, Taihu
National Tourism Vacation Area Tel: (0512) 6651-5999
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