Just saying "laowai" doesn't come close to telling Shanghai's story.
Foreigners in this city are no monolith. Depending on the 'hoods we live, work and drink-to-excess in, we experience Shanghai in our own, totally different ways. Whether you are sipping cham' on the Bund, café-hunting on Taikang Lu or holding down Pudong with your driver, sooner or later everyone belongs to one of Shanghai's gangs.
by John Lynch
The Expat Clan
The real big money players in town. The Clan hated downtown Puxi so much they built an alternate universe with their families on the other bank of the river and in the suburbs of downtown. The Clan is mostly found in Jinqiao and around Hongmei Lu.
Community Outreach
Their demands for Western-style eats opened up the city's supermarkets, restaurants and cafés to every flavor. None would be here if it wasn't for The Clan. Word.
Culinary Strongholds
The Slice deli in Jinqiao should have "Clubhouse" scrawled across the door, selling gourmet produce and coffee strong enough to kick you down the street. Come by to see The Clan rolling out with 40oz. lattés in paper bags. They're also known to inhabit the Blue Frog in Jinqiao, which is boozy enough for the parental clan and family friendly enough to bring the kids.
Known Associations
Jinqiao-based big dog Richard Dolan, department head at Dulwich College, likes to enjoy a glass of wine on one of his rare evenings off. "The best place is Vino Villa, Jinqiao's Velvet Lounge and the Likkersnick of Long Dong Fong," he says. "A glass of Chianti and a nub of Lancashire cheddar cost you little more than a ready smile and firm handshake."
Legal (Visa) Issues
This crew is legitimately employed and will be here as long as they, or their company, wishes them to be. Most will leave Shanghai for a trip home this summer.
The Hipsters
In honor of Aric S. Queen, CW columnist and the Pied Piper of Shanghai's underground music community, Hipsters, or more affectionately "Queensters," are a clique of artists and musicians, bonified or aspiring... but mostly people that like art and music.
Community Outreach
This gang is known for organizing parties and ensuring Shanghai's live music venues have healthy bar revenues--providing that there isn't a Kedi within jogging distance.
Culinary Strongholds
You'll catch this crew chowing down on something low budget and tasty at Shanghai's obscure venues. Thai House, hidden down an ally, is perfect. What better way to preceed a night of partying than with an all-you-can-eat-and-drink teppenyaki blow-out? Hewei's teppenyaki ticks all the right boxes.
Known Associations
Queensters are all about the music, man, whatever the genre or venue. "I go to The Shelter for hip-hop and drum 'n bass but Windows Underground and Yuyintang for live bands," says editor and violinist, Sarah Kwan. The cornerstone of the Queensters' existence, however, remains the musical institution that currently is LOgO.
Legal (Visa) Issues
The F Visa (aka f***ing visa). The Queensters are losing ground. You'll see fewer of these bad boys zipping around on mopeds as the visa crackdown continues.
The Yuppies
They're young, full of flash and stuffed with cash. These expats-in-waiting are ready to step into daddy's shoes as soon as the party life gets dull. Note: They're irritatingly indefatigable until the small hours of the morning.
Community Outreach
This crew keeps the city's taxi patrons amused by waving their posh faces around in Cedric M videos. Though, to their credit, nothing makes money for charity faster than a Yuppie fundraiser.
Culinary Strongholds
This crew hits Jean-Georges, M on the Bund, Kathleen's 5, Laris, any of Eduardo Vargas' restaurants (think Azul Viva and Casa 13) and anywhere else most people can't afford to eat. May be pushed as far as Xintiandi for dim sum at Zen, but remain astoundingly aloof to the rest of Shanghai's dining culture.
Known Associations
After work, follow their loud guffaws to Bar Rouge, Lounge 18, Attica or anywhere on the Bund to witness displays of wealth and hip-hop dancing. Look for them in magazine party photos the next week. Like anyone else, this group is not averse to some late night crooning in a KTV--the Party World one is well placed by the Fuxing Park afterhours venues.
Legal (Visa) Issues
Yuppies have been blessed with full working visas. Yuppie imposters may endure an F visa before graduating to Z visa status.
The Union of Scholars & Educators
Ah... The Union, cultural ambassadors for the West. These students of Mandarin make a little cash on the side as "English Language Experts" in schools and kindergartens all over town. Rest easy Shanghai, your children are in safe hands.
Community Outreach
This entry-level operation keeps the supply of fresh blood coming into Shanghai. After one year, old hands either graduate to Queensters or head home--hoping to return someday as full-fledged expats.
Culinary Strongholds
Dong Hua University student James Knowlson likes to head for something spicy after class: "Most of my classmates are Korean so we often get together for Korean barbecue on Qingshan Lu." We also hear that the Dong Hua canteen serves a mean hot pot. Looking for the "authentic" China experience, the Chinese food venues of the city are open to the adventurous hordes of the union. Wujiang Lu food street offers a good selection of street food and good, cheap Sichuanese restaurants.
Known Associations
Load up on beers in apartments or in university halls before descending into all-you-can-drink Valhalla at Bon Bon or Mural. Survivors eventually find their way to Windows Too to body pop until the sun comes up.
Legal (Visa) Issues
This crew is riding high on their student visas--safe until the end of term. They're just not welcome over the summer break.
The Bohemians
These are Shanghai's dons of the theater, poetry and dance world. No limerick may be recited in this town without the blessing of The Bohemians. This patchouli army has taken control of vast swathes of Puxi since bursting on to the scene a couple of years ago.
Community Outreach
The Bohemians have remarkably helped foster a legitimate art industry in the city. Galleries, cafés and exhibition spaces now thrive in the Bohemian 'hoods of Taikang Lu, Suzhou Creek and, of course, in the Moganshan Lu art district.
Culinary Strongholds
Always ready to explore new frontiers, Bohemians dig the Vietnamese fare at Bam-Bou and the North African cuisine at El Wajh. Some may also head to Indalo for authentic tapas followed by a night of wine and flamenco. Staple of the Bohemian diet, however, requires frequent stops at Bohemia Café on Taikang Lu.
Known Associations
Local actors enjoy a post-performance gathering at Caesura on Taikang Lu. "It's a small room on the second floor with low seating," says thespian Michael Beets of the East West Theater group. "You can play games, have a drink and chat."
Legal (Visa) Issues
Every class and nationality is represented in this utopian commune so they're guaranteed to be here after the Olympics.
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