THE DISH: Eating In
It's the new eating out, only cheaper and sexier
Eating out was an occasion that elicited extreme excitement when I was growing up in Cambridge, Massachusetts. My parents would take me to Charlie's, a dimly-lit working class joint near Harvard Square with dark red vinyl booths. We ate immense portions of Greek salad, pork chops and chicken wings under lighting consisting of alternating blue and red glowing plastic logs on the walls. To my 7-year-old palate, everything was as delicious as it was eagerly anticipated.
In Shanghai, conversely, going out for meals has become as common as eating-in once was. Many folks seem to eat out six days a week and on the seventh, it's doggie bag leftovers or fangbianmian. So, I've begun focusing on reasons to eat in: Not every restaurant meal is as scrumptious as Charlie's once seemed, dining out daily probably isn't an ideal healthful diet, it's generally cheaper to buy groceries than eat out, and finally, I promise that if you cook for a date, you will be far more enthusiastically embraced (maybe literally) than if you settle for yet another meal out.
Since I began this dining column and planted my own small urban garden last year, I've pondered this eating dilemma. I think the key to balancing the dining in / out equation is taking a fresh attitude toward the honest, palpable pleasures of cooking and entertaining at home with friends. Almost everyone has time to cook at least once a week when ingredients are at hand and menus are simple. Adapting recipes to fit what's available locally is undeniably satisfying, and a visit the the local wet market can inspire and excite even the novice cook.
Who doesn't know this experience: the day of a planned dinner party, we find ourselves taxi-ing, or subway-ing between multiple supermarkets hunting for some elusive ingredient, be it chickpeas or fresh basil. The solution? Localize. Pretend you are an international corporation and employ plentiful, low-cost, local talent. Take full advantage of bounteous wet market staples like mushrooms of all kinds, shallots, tropical fruit, clams and fish (fishmongers can even clean and fillet for you).
Who has time after a long day to scrub veggies, trim fatty meats, prep fruit like pineapple and melon? Solution: Many of us are blessed with the luxury of ayis. These are some tasks she can help with: mince garlic and throw in a jar with plenty of olive oil, this can be used in stir-fries and sauces; peel and slice fruit, carrots and celery, and pack it in Tupperware for quick, healthy snacks; wash, prep and bag salad ingredients so you can pop them out of the fridge, toss with dressing and eat.
Proper tools will transform the cooking experience. Head over to Aomen Lu's wholesale kitchen market for a few excellent knives (look for Henckel's affordable China-only brand Danliren), a cast iron pan, a hefty wood chopping board, and if you're feeling fancy, a hand blender--which makes whipping up soups and dressings a breeze.
Other tips for putting dinner together in a snap: Look for Donna Hay's gorgeous New Food Fast or The Instant Cook in local bookstores. Use this simple recipe so you can keep a jar of homemade salad dressing on hand. Mix to taste: good olive oil, vinegar (use two to three kinds to add depth), a splash of wine, garlic, salt, and a few of your favorite minced herbs. If you have Dijon mustard, add a teaspoon. If you have bitter greens in your salad, add a dollop of jam or jelly. Who can't throw this together, even in small quarters: a salad, a piece of pan-grilled pork or fish, a loaf of French bread from the market, and a fruit salad topped with a spoon of yogurt. Add wine and candles, and make it happen.
And for those even more adventurous? It's time to plant some herbs and veggies on your balcony! At this rate, eating in may soon become almost as thrilling as a visit to Charlie's.
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