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Aug 29, 2008

Dare to be Different

A bold Brazilian designer takes bikes as a muse
Intimidation is the usual fate of every new designer entering Shanghai's Gucci, Chanel and Louis Vuitton-dominated market, but not for bold Brazilian Enesoe Chan. Guided by his adage "Your right to be different," Chan has cruised into the brand-ruled Shanghai fashion scene with a cool, laidback disposition and a refreshing twist on style recently showcased in Shanghai.

The difference is attitude for Chan's creations. Garbage, slums, war and psychiatric wards aren't widely explored themes in the fashion world, but they feed Chan's creative muse. His current bicycle-inspired collection, recently unveiled online and scheduled for a full fashion show in early fall, isn't as controversial as his previous lines, but is still a clever cluster of pieces which accomplish two oft conflicting objectives--style and comfort. His spring / summer line is comprised of wheel-like motifs and made entirely from light, natural linen. Graceful, ground-skimming tube top dresses, light, roomy jumpsuits and free-flowing, airy overalls in hues of pale yellow, peach and lilac highlight the collection, with giant round pockets adding extra charm.

Even more unprecedented, Chan's collection is entirely unisex and multifunctional--copious buttons and zippers allow a person to wear the pieces in different styles depending on their mood. "You can wear the clothes the way you want," explains Delphine Loustau, brand manager of the Enesoe Chan label. "The wearer can have fun with their clothes. One piece can be worn as a top, a skirt, or even pants," she explains. And for those who've experienced grief searching for clothes that fit a larger-than-pixie-frame, Chan's range is entirely free of sizes. The garments are made either oversized to be wrapped around the body, or elasticized.

Chan, who has around 20 years of fashion experience under his belt, says the Shanghai launch is a new phase for him and is an invaluable experience. In addition to expanding in Shanghai, he is concurrently launching Enesoe Chan in France and Brazil and will present the collection at São Paulo Fashion Week. "We want to sell the label in different places so we can reach various people with different opinions," says Chan.

Shanghai can be a tough market for new designers especially if one isn't a global brand name , but Loustau feels that Chan's label offers a unique, affordable designer brand for Shanghai's middle class. The line debuted a little more than a month ago at Shanghai Studio with an aptly-themed Brazilian party and was well-received by young Shanghainese.

Cynthia Cross