Authentic is not the right word to describe David Laris’ venture into local fare, yet inauthentic would be equally wrong. The food at Le Sheng, sold using Laris’ name but helmed by Shanghainese chef Fang Chao, is best described as clean and modern Shanghainese with a firm understanding of tradition.

The interior is intimate and elegant with a hint of Chinese style. It’s the kind of place that encourages a classy clientele. The food is plated in contemporary style on beautiful ceramics from Spin. We based our meal around Shanghai standards, avoiding fusion offerings. While most of it safely hit the mark, a couple of dishes manage to surprise with elevated execution.

Le Sheng’s fish dishes are their strongest. The old fashioned smoked fish (RMB28) is served slightly warm, and the delicately sweet sauce cloaks a nicely crusted piece of flaky fish. The crispy yellow croaker fish spring roll (RMB38) also won our hearts with a solid crunch and moist, flaky fish inside.

The drunken chicken (RMB38) is poached in a salty huangjiu, though we wished it could have spent more time in the wine. The xiefen doufu (RMB88) is duplicitous with a mild sauce bordering on boring covering deliciously big chunks of high-quality crab. We wish we could take their crab and have it cooked up for us at Jesse. And while their subdued take on hongshao rou with quail eggs (RMB68) is good, it’s no standout.

The only disaster of the meal was the boiled okra (RMB38) that was too fibrous and maintained a certain slime factor. But we only skimmed the surface of the giant menu and will definitely go back for some smoked fish and to explore a little more as well.

Our rating: 4/5

DETAILS

What: Le Sheng

Where: 322 Anfu Lu 安福路322号

Tel: 5406-6011

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