It’s often “go big or go home” on Shanghai’s F&B scene, and with Collective Concepts’ latest three-floor restaurant / club / lounge superconcept, it’s clear that they’re going big after finding success with The Apartment and The Food Central.

Just as the outside façade, dominated by a bold, three-story image of a geisha, makes a statement, the inside décor of the dining room similarly makes an impact: dim lights, sultry lacquered tables, satin upholstered chairs and creamy leather booths. The food menu is concise, featuring Cali-Japanese fare that pushes flavors and plays with texture. A more extensive drink menu features all the staples along with excellent cocktails.

Our delectably creamy homemade tofu appetizer (RMB58) came three ways: truffle oiled, sesame drizzled and stuffed with albacore caviar, though the rolls were a bit more uneven. The spiderman roll (RMB88) has eight gigantic pieces of soft shell crab, avocado and cucumber topped with a rich, buttery slice of unagi. The prawn tempura-based Catalina Island roll (RMB98) is a celebration of texture and crunch, finishing with a surprising heat. Ho Chi Minh’s horse (RMB98), featuring tuna, manachi and salmon all together, is good but faded into the background a bit and the ingredients in the actual roll did not match up with the menu description.

The soy-braised chicken (RMB110) was an even bigger disappointment. The sweet, tender chicken is tasty and the citrusy asparagus is lovely, but the wasabi mash has a bizarre medicinal flavor, making it not only a lacking side dish but something that brought down the other components of the dish with it.

In spite of the missteps, it’s clear that there’s soul beneath the slick, and overall the showy presentation at The Geisha is backed up by true flavors.

Our rating: 4/5

DETAILS:

What: The Geisha

Where: 390 Shaanxi Nan Lu 陕西南路390号

Tel: 6403-0244

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