NEW EATS: Mojo Mania | Contemporary Chinese
Good Looks, Bad Taste
At a glance, this pan-Asian restaurant is a sight for sore palates. The décor is a layering of lounge meets contemporary art museum-dim private booths on the first floor and a three-level spiral staircase leads to semi-private rooms with large tables surrounded by giant, white beds on the third. The menu offered a daunting scope of cuisine so we thought it best to commit to the full set meal for two (¥300) which offers choices from each section including dessert and tea. A parade of colorful, thoughtfully arranged dishes ensued. Notable of the ten were the baked chicken with bean sauce-succulent chicken in a simple, savory bean purée-and the curry chicken rolls, Thai-style, four mini mounds of seared chicken and vegetables with a light cream sauce. Sadly, the following eight dishes, while pretty to look at, were tasteless, sometimes painful. We were also victims of a common Shanghai dining scene culprit-a full drink menu without the bartending skills to deliver a decent one. First try, a Mojito (¥68), looked good but had a tongue-burning sweetness without a trace of rum. The manager responded to our grimaces and attempted another version. No go, still the same. Next! We ordered a dirty vodka martini straight (¥68). It had way too much vermouth, and tasted like soap. Our consensus: a good place to bring take-out.
Renee Reynolds
Add: 30 Donghu Lu 东湖路30号
Tel: 5404-2375

