Every restaurant in Shanghai has a story behind it, but this one needs more explanation than most. The Restaurant-Ecole Institut Paul Bocuse is actually a culinary and hospitality school with half its students from France, half from China and an attached restaurant. So just about everyone you meet there, from the cooks in the open kitchen to the host who takes your coat, is a student. And that shows through a bit in your meal. It’s not all as tightly polished as some other spots (though of course every dish is first vetted by the executive chef), but it’s a fun experience that’s worth a try.

Service, in general, is a winner. The servers are unfailingly attentive, and though their English isn't perfect, they know a bit about their wines and are so earnest that small errors are forgivable.

The fare here is distinctly French, not a surprise given that Paul Bocuse is one of the pioneers of modern French cuisine. We opted for four courses off the regular menu (RMB500) along with a four-course degustation menu with wine pairings (RMB600)―the latter is better value and more impressive overall. Dishes are well designed in general; the roasted scallops with black truffles and Jerusalem artichokes from the degustation menu were fresh and flavorful and the foie gras terrine with roasted figs was similarly well-prepared and plated. The pan-fried foie gras was slightly over-done but still hit, paired with bits of bright pineapple that lifted its flavors. The chocolate ball dessert, filled with fruit jam before being doused and melted through by hot chocolate, is a fun dish to end with.

We were, however, less enthused by the sweetbread-lined beef tenderloin main and the bland halibut served on a bed of mashed potatoes. All told, this is a solid, unstuffy fine dining experience that provides a nice change of pace.

Our rating: 3.5

DETAILS

What: Restaurant-Ecole Institut Paul Bocuse

Where: 379 Baotun Lu 保屯路379号

Tel: 3307-1102

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