Sushi was once exotic, but not anymore. As the demand for sushi rises, so does the strain on fish populations. Sushi Abuse has taken upon itself to be kind to the environment while being good to diners. And in spite of its unfortunate name, it’s hard not to like this slick, two-storey joint.

The décor is urban chic, and the menu comes in a sleek earth-toned folder. Menu items are Haiku-inspired, but the prices are unpretentious. In the menu, a small note explains the concept while flags mark where the fish is from. Overall, the restaurant is careful not to rub its moral superiority in your face.

Diners can choose between the gorge-yourself infinity menu (RMB248) or ordering à la carte. The seafood salad (RMB60) is dressed well and had tasty bits of Indian tuna, shrimp and yellowtail, while the salmon sushi (RMB25) is topped with firm, healthy colored salmon. The rolls (RMB50-80) were all solid with just one complaint—why the mango? Both our 911 (spicy tuna, RMB45) and “spank me” rolls (salmon, avocado and fish roe, RMB68) would have been better without it. The Hawaii hand roll (RMB18) is similarly disastrous with canned peaches and slivers of crab and cucumber. The miso cod (RMB68) however, comes in strong with four generous slices of well grilled, buttery cod, and the sizzling ox tongue (RMB58) is tender and extremely flavorful with a peppery savory sauce.

The sustainable sushi thing could be real or a marketing ploy, but Sushi Abuse’s menu can stand on its own merits–the morality is a bonus and not the main selling point.

Our rating: 3.5/5

DETAILS

What: Sushi Abuse

Where: 2/F, 98 Yanping Lu 延平路98号2楼

Tel: 5175-9818