Its menu has just been revamped and reduced in scope (it was a little scatterbrained before), but Fossette still provides decent dishes and hearty portions with enough variety to suit a big party with diverse tastes.

We started with a chicken Caesar (RMB56), which was large, though like a pall-bearer at a rock concert, over-dressed. The grilled vegetables Italian style (RMB48) are nicely presented though served chilled. Room temperature would have better brought out the flavors—nothing that has been grilled should be served chilled. The hummus dips trio (RMB48) is a novel idea: three types of hummus, made of kidney beans, white beans and chickpeas, presented with a horn of crudités and bread. It could have used more garlic to pep it up, but it looked great and would be good to order for a table of friends.

The tenderloin with pommery mustard and couscous (RMB138) is a large, plump cut of tender beef running with juices. The chicken breast with spinach and pesto (RMB128) is imaginative, with smears of pesto-infused cream surrounding chicken breast stuffed with spinach and wrapped in bacon. The saltiness erred on overkill but the cream balanced it out. On the side came another dollop of homemade hummus. We’d have preferred a scoop of risotto or some other carb garnish, but our stomachs were already stretched so it was no biggie.

The menu is built to encourage set dinners, with two courses (a salad and something hot) for RMB80, or three for RMB120 or RMB160, depending on options. They’re pretty good value.

There’s some fine-tuning to do, but at these prices, diners can pick and choose. Our advice: come with a dozen friends and order a table full of wine (bottles start at RMB98), then slowly graze through the unpretentious menu and be pleasantly surprised.

DETAILS

What: Fossette

Where: Rm. 93, 3 Xiangyang Lu 襄阳北路93号3 室

Tel: 6418-1138