Kota’s Kitchen is one of those “hidden secrets” that’s not really all that hidden anymore. But its food remains solid, and its second venue on Yongjia Lu gives diners more of the same: great, affordable fare with Beatles tunes playing 24 / 7.

The menu is the same here as at the Xietu Lu location and is filled out by the same extensive list of sakes and shochus. The best way to attack it is to order a couple of the restaurant’s star dishes and supplement them with multiple beers and a selection of skewers.

Our favorite Kota’s item has always been the pork belly (RMB35)—it’s one of the most mouth-wateringly tender bits of meat in Shanghai and it’s as good here as at the old location. Another must-try is the hot spring egg (RMB35), a croquette as big as a dinosaur egg that oozes yolk when its deep-fried mashed potato casing is cracked in half. The sweet tahini sauce it sits in complements it perfectly.

The yakitori selections are all lovingly grilled over charcoal, so it’s hard to go wrong. The smoky grilled Camembert (RMB30 for three) is a quirky selection worth trying, as are the dumpling-stuffed chicken wings (RMB25 each). The juicy beef short ribs (RMB35) and savory asparagus and bacon skewers (RMB15) are similarly solid.

We finished by splitting another perennial winner: the white pork broth ramen (RMB45). Its glossy, unctuous pork broth hits all the right notes and will warm you from the inside out even on the coldest of winter nights.

The new Kota’s doesn’t quite match the original in coziness or Beatlemania quirkiness, and the earnest service needs a tiny bit of tightening up, but this is still a great, relaxed place for any meal, casual and consistently delicious yet always bustling. Just be sure to book before you go.

DETAILS

What: Kota's Kitchen

Where: 335 Yongjia Lu 永嘉路335号

Tel: 5466-6335