Le Bouchon is not particularly trendy or contemporary. It just serves good quality traditional French fare in a casual, quirky setting, and that is why it has survived Shanghai’s rugged F&B scene for the past 13 years.

Correctly anticipating generous servings, we ordered two starters and one main. We began with poached egg with mushrooms and goose liver (RMB120)–layer upon layer of goodness, with the foie gras peeking through aromatic mushrooms hidden under creamy egg. We’d happily make a meal of this single dish and wouldn’t go to bed hungry. The scallops in vol au vent in cream sauce (RMB80) arrives covered in crisp shards of leek, the pastry oozing with decadent sauce and topped by enough sweet, plump scallops to satiate.

In such a setting, it seemed appropriate to order the duck confit (RMB170). This was the only disappointment of the meal–tender in parts but mostly dry. It’s served with potatoes and garlic and covered by bacon. The side is delicious, but definitely not for the faint of heart.

Despite the protesting arteries, we suspected we would find a fine crème brûlée (RMB50) here, and we did. It’s served in a slim, wide crème brûlée dish, which too many restaurants forgo even though it makes a huge difference in ensuring you get enough crunchy sugar with every bite. Though we would have preferred the custard to be a touch less firm, it more than met our flavor expectations.

Come to Le Bouchon if you want a classic French meal done well. Next time we’re in, we’ll try the steak tartare, which the chef himself comes out to prepare.

DETAILS

What: Le Bouchon

Where: 1455 Wuding Xi Lu 武定西路1455号

Tel: 6225-7088