Temple in the Cloud

The Temple of King Yu, the founder of Chinese civilization, is one of Shaoxing's top draws, but it pales in comparison to Kuaiji Mountain which is located just beside it. It is a strenuous hike up into the clouds, but you'll be rewarded by a beautiful temple and views of the distant city.

A ￥15 ticket gets you access to a large, basically brand new Zen temple complex situated at the foot of Kuaiji Mountain. The surrounding hillsides are interesting (and a little spooky) in their own right for the multitude of grave mounds serried on the slopes; some of the graves are quite old. This is a traditional burial method in the Jiangnan region. If you're not afraid of ghosts, they make for a nice hour-long exploration.

Afterwards, wind your way through the impressive–though painfully new–temple grounds until you pick up the trail to the top of the mountain. The path is nicely paved, but steep and tiring. Take your time, stop frequently at the little pagodas and enjoy the sound of birds and the sight of nothing but trees all around.

Eventually, you reach the top of a high ridge where there is a big temple complex perched on an overhang. Forty monks live there full time, up in the clouds. Absorb 360-degree views of the area. The protected mountain is entirely forested with just a few small pavilions, built discreetly on the high slopes, reachable via paved paths. Check them out and get a taste of the life of a recluse.

Kuaiji Mountain is a full-day adventure. And don't feel bad about skipping King Yu. He may have taught the Chinese to control floods and irrigate the land, but he's got nothing on life in the clouds.

DETAILS

Base yourself at the Shaoxing Fandian Tel: (0575) 515-5888
Web: www.hotel-shaoxing.com