Island Town

Surrounded by five lakes, cut into patchwork by canals and crisscrossed by cobblestone alleys, Tongli is the quintessential Jiangnan water town. Cross the stone bridge spanning across the lakes to the placid old village and find yourself in a world rooted in the past, where cars are blessedly banned.

Tongli boasts excellent examples of classically-styled gardens, the most famous of which is Tuisi Yuan. Mercifully devoid of the mobs swarming Suzhou’s UNESCO-protected brethren, Tuisi is a centuries-old garden and there you'll get a firm sense of its original purpose as a place of reflection.

Not as famous, but much larger, Zhenzhu Ta has expansive grounds which invite exploration and comes with a fantastic story about a poor scholar who wooed the daughter of a rich official. So moved were the girl’s parents by the scholar’s sincerity and rectitude that they built a lavish pavilion on the grounds. On your way out, beat the drums in sequence for luck in wooing the one you love.

Tongli is also a tea drinker’s heaven. The unmistakable Sanfengxi Teahouse is one of its most famous, but we prefer pulling up a stool at one of the many family-run teahouses which line the canals. Afterwards, wander to the small square for one of the regular opera performances which grace the purpose-built stage. You’ll also want to check out the island monastery of Luoxing Zhou, so wonderful it deserves its own write-up.

On your way back to the real world, pick up some local candy. We love the maiya tang, a gummy concoction which tastes a lot like the taffy you buy at the seashore back home. With some high-quality flavorings, this could be China’s next big billion dollar export.

DETAILS

What: Tongli Old Town
Cost: ￥80
Stay: Catena Inn
Tel: (0512) 6332-3388
Web: www.catenainn.com