It takes a healthy dose of self-confidence and a sort of “nose up” to the ways of tradition, to present yourself to the public in your natural glory. But with Champagne, self-assuredness is a commodity supplied in buckets, so it comes as no surprise that more producers are presenting themselves “in the nude.” ASC Fine Wines recently launched their low dosage Ayala Champagne. Acquired by its bigger neighbor Bollinger not too long ago, Ayala comes from a small house, established in 1860 by Edmond D’Ayala as part of his wedding dowry (now that is something worth celebrating). The brand is offering, to the Chinese market, a no-frills, stripped-to-the-bone, dry style of sparkling wine. Such “Brut Nature” wines forego the last injection of sugar concentrate that is added just after disgorgement (the releasing of the yeast cells from the bottle). This sweet sugar bomb generally softens the wine into a less acidic and dry style, but can obviously mask some of its delicate fruit aromas and characteristics. Ayala is a stylish example of low dosage Champagnes, maintaining a balance through additional ageing that helps bring its complexity in line with its piercingly clean, dry, and very refreshing palate. One of my favorites, available through ASC, is the Ayala Zero Dosage NV, a wine that dances between the power of its Pinot-dominant soul and the length of its linear, fruit-driven heart. No bells and whistles, just the purity of time and place.

Find It 20 Donghu Lu 东湖路20号, Tel: 5404-5757

Michael Lee