Cu Gai Guan 香港粗菜馆
5/F, 333 Tianyaoqiao Lu,
Xuhui
near Xietu Lu, Metro Line 4 Shanghai Statium Station
天钥桥路333号腾飞大厦5楼
近斜土路, 地铁4号线上海体育馆站
6121-3666
Price Y100-Y199 per couple
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Invertebrate fans will rejoice at the dishes flowing from this Cantonese kitchen, an array of shrimp, crab, sea cucumber and even snails which can be prepared as you like in eleven different ways. Those who are less adventurous can also partake of crinkled and juicy roast chicken or delicious vegetable and noodle dishes.
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From Guangzhou with Love
Pale yellow tacking and recessed utility lights set Cu Cai Guan's décor apart from absolutely nothing, but the food floating out of this Cantonese kitchen is a consistent pleasure. The menu orbits around invertebrates--a parade of snails, sea cucumber and crab waiting to be prepared eleven ways--but it's easy to play it conservative and be rewarded. Take the fried shrimp, crusty or dressed in hot oil with noodles and garlic (YY68), for example. Or, if more adventurous, start with the unusual qilin algae in fragrant soy dressing (YY20). A roast chicken (YY55 for half) is crinkled and juicy, complemented by a nutty, sour dipping sauce. Cu Cai Guan's artful way with vegetables goes beyond the blanched: do Chinese greens with soybeans and cured fish or stir-fried pork with hot green peppers. Singaporean fried vermicelli (YY33) is an attractive dish found along the menu's noodle meridian. The few missteps (sallow tonkatsu painted with mayonnaise) should caution the diner to steer clear of fusion in mainstream Cantonese restaurants. --Katya Knyazeva