New Eats | Tasty, not Tasteful

The simple elegance of the vegetarian dishes here pleases palates without busting guts. It’s likely we will return, but we would be more inclined if the ambience better fit the cuisine. It’s solid Chinese vegetarian, but veterans of the veggie scene may miss the innovative fake bones and ribs on offer other places. The décor is more massage parlor than classy restaurant. But despite the gaudy draped fabric and wicker furniture, the refined dishes are actually plated fantastically, utilizing fresh flowers, dry ice and wood. Order the shui zhu yu (水煮鱼, ¥88) and you’ll get a faux fish head swimming in a pool of oil, ma la pepper and mushrooms. The veggies are great, but the “fish” resembles lunch meat. The dong po rou (东坡肉, ¥68) is a convincing take on braised pork with meat and fat layers and the bai qie ji (白切鸡, ¥48) has the authentic feel of crispy chicken skin. Their stir-fried vegetables (¥68), with lotus root, snow peas, wood ear fungus and water chestnuts, is basic yet served on a beautiful lotus leaf-wrapped bamboo steamer. The carefully fried si ji dou (四季豆, ¥18) will satisfy even the pickiest green bean lovers. Come give your body something different, but bring someone who reads Chinese–there’s no English menu.

■ Cristina Ng