Be Still My Appetite

A destination for those seeking quality food and an alternative to the more familiar Bund setting, Chef Stefan Stiller’s namesake restaurant exudes a relaxed air of sophistication from the moment you step into its elegant, chic interior. White tablecloths, vases overflowing with fragrant lilies, sleek edges and a beautiful patio that boasts a less commercially bombarded profile of the Pudong skyline set the scene as we settled near the window to take a short tour through the menu. We began with the Cake of Foie Gras (RMB145). Split into two layers and topped with balsamic jelly so that it did in fact appear the part. Our triangular slice of foie gras, complemented by candied pineapple, lived up to the epicurean expectations that always accompany fine dining’s superstar delicacy. Another bread and butter of a refined restaurant, the beef tartar (RMB110), was uniquely presented—finely chopped morsels of tartar were molded into a cube surrounding grain mustard ice cream, then topped with a sunny-side-up quail egg and surrounded by seared scallops topped with a caper and vinegar foam. Off to a decadent start, we followed with a Mediterranean-inspired turbot fillet (RMB245). Moist and tender, its flavor was drawn out by the sweetness of a bed of confit tomatoes and the saltiness of a few capers and black olive tapenade. Other dishes such as black cod (RMB210) on a bed of white cabbage encircled by small, deep-fried spheres of blutwurst-praline (black pudding) showcase the chef’s German roots. Meticulous preparation goes into many items that grace the menu. Stiller, who jovially wanders from the open prep kitchen in the center of the dining area to check in on guests, tells us that the tender and flavorful 36-hour slow-braised beef cheek (RMB225) spends three days marinating in an intricately prepared jus before it reaches the braising stage. Stuffed near beyond capacity but determined to take in the full experience, we enjoyed a complimentary pre-dessert of delicate banana mousse topped with a layer of thick butterscotch before our senses were pleasantly overrun by the chocolate fennel mousse with saffron ice cream (RMB75), a unique combination whose rich mousse whispers with a hint of anise. Enjoy these with a few glasses of some outstanding German wines that Stiller himself has taken the time to select and import, or a nice bitter espresso to balance the palate. --Trista Baldwin