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cityweekend

The lobby of Lao Zheng Xing is separated from the bookish frenzy of Fuzhou Lu by massive golden doors, at once establishing the leisurely pace of old-fashioned Sunday dining. Up the golden staircase, the dining hall gleams with gilt, but forget involuntary associations with Zhapu Lu. Here, you'll find more accomplished cuisine and graceful service. Lao Zheng Xing's tradition of cooking sea and river fare began in 1862, and the kitchen carries on the spirit of a poised but dexterous banquet flecked with moments of experimentation. After eating here, Zhou Enlai was heard praising these unique dishes. What impressed the leader must have been the Shanghai red sauce--condensed, smoky, with a delicate note of cinnamon. Among the species slated to be dipped in it you find freshwater eel, black carp and catfish, while familiar red-sauce pork (YY38) comes in three shapes: cubes, feet or a square slab. Another flash of uniqueness is in the savvy take on "eight treasures"--a sweet nutty rice mix stuffed inside broiled duck, while a saltier variation with chicken cubes is immersed in vibrant chili sauce (YY17). Attentive service and balanced flavors supply an auspicious atmosphere--a great way to introduce Shanghai cooking to your visiting parents. They'll find tofu stew with crab paste (YY24) comforting in a cold city, and the crusty fried river prawns (YY58) might become their fondest memory of China. -- Katya Knyazeva