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cityweekend

Take Me Home

The militant family-run orientation of this restaurant does not distract from the genuine joie de vivre spread across the vast semi-circular dining hall. The restaurant downplays the excellence of their kitchen in favor of an upbeat, peppy ambiance and (these months) a bolstered sense of Olympic pride displayed through mural-sized posters and staff in torch-bearer uniforms. No matter--this family turns every dinner into a delightful Sichuan banquet, with nerve and verve and flair. The mousy niece turns a humble fried frog (YY58) into a rich and hot "prince" with a naughty sour twist. Grandma disguises homey potatoes (YY18) in a bouquet of glossy delectables rolled in spice. The cousins with woks work breaded lamb chops (YY18) into a rocket ship of taste sensations, and Dad's hot-and-numbing fried shrimp (YY58) could even grace tables at a wedding party. Rest assured, Mom did not walk across the street to get her tea-smoked duck (YY28), but steeped the bird in marinade with her own hands, continuing to smoke, steam and deep-fry the fowl until its skin turned a smoldering crimson. If you behave at dinner, they'll pack you a clay jar full of Sichuan chili paste to take back to your own family. -Katya Knyazeva

 

fatcow

A very crowded and noisy dining hall, which lent a nice, festive feel to the evening. The frog pot was well balanced, stir fried baby potatos with chile and garlic were addictive, and the tea smoked duck was fragrant and rich.Other dishes were hit and miss.

Overall this place is pretty tame in terms of spice. Good for large groups or for a change of pace from your local sichuan haunt.

 

3 months, 4 weeks ago