Take Me Home

The militant family-run orientation of this restaurant does not distract from the genuine joie de vivre spread across the vast semi-circular dining hall. The restaurant downplays the excellence of their kitchen in favor of an upbeat, peppy ambiance and (these months) a bolstered sense of Olympic pride displayed through mural-sized posters and staff in torch-bearer uniforms. No matter--this family turns every dinner into a delightful Sichuan banquet, with nerve and verve and flair. The mousy niece turns a humble fried frog (YY58) into a rich and hot "prince" with a naughty sour twist. Grandma disguises homey potatoes (YY18) in a bouquet of glossy delectables rolled in spice. The cousins with woks work breaded lamb chops (YY18) into a rocket ship of taste sensations, and Dad's hot-and-numbing fried shrimp (YY58) could even grace tables at a wedding party. Rest assured, Mom did not walk across the street to get her tea-smoked duck (YY28), but steeped the bird in marinade with her own hands, continuing to smoke, steam and deep-fry the fowl until its skin turned a smoldering crimson. If you behave at dinner, they'll pack you a clay jar full of Sichuan chili paste to take back to your own family. -Katya Knyazeva