We recently stepped out of the cold and into Pho26 for soup noodles, and it turned out to be the perfect cure for our winter malaise. The service is prompt and friendly, and the restaurant itself is small, comfortable and clean. To keep with the Vietnamese theme of the place, we chose the beef brisket Pho (¥35), the Pho 26 house special (¥38), rice paper shrimp rolls (¥38) and the deep fried spring rolls (¥31). Both versions of the Vietnamese noodles use the same aromatic base and add in simple slices of lean beef for the brisket pho and beef slices, tripe and beef balls for the house special. An ample serving of light, savory broth pumps your core temperature, while the soft noodles play well with the crunchy bean sprouts and fresh greens. The soup’s potage primarily takes it flavors from the broth, perfectly salty with subtle hints of anise and coriander. Chili peppers served on the side add a kick but are not for amateurs. The salty, mushroom-filled spring rolls have room to grow, but the light flavors of the shrimp mango rice paper rolls are a better complement to the savory soup. The latter is served with three sauces, but the best are the traditional fish sauce and chilies.

■ Alex Milan